Coincidently,Pierre,moi,and four other winos met at Vidalia in DC yesterday to have a taste-off between 96 and 95 Medoc first growths and some other wines. Pierre will file a detailed report on the Hedonist's Gazette,but both vintages showed their stuff with the 96s truly profound....and as I have consistently maintained,a great vintage in the Medoc, even rivaling 2000 Medocs...in the other appellations 95 takes the prize.
The wines were tasted in pairs;they had been double decanted 3-5 hours before the tasting.
1.Cos D'Estournel..delicious,open 95..but compelling 96..no contest...96.
2.Ducru-Beaucaillou..fabulous 95 and 96 with 96 being preferred because of greater aromatic intensity and finish...but a close competition.
3.Leoville Las Cases...immortal 96 and great 95,but side by side, the 96 had more of everything.
4.Pichon-Lalande...an opulent,very sexy 95 was dazzling,but 96 was prodigious...more bouquet,flavor,and intensity..96 is greatest Pichon since 82,,95 not far behind.
5. Grand-Puy-Lacoste..no contest....great 96...corked 95.
6.Lafite-Rothschild...two extraordinary wines but 96 is one the greatest young wines I have ever tasted...anywhere...anytime!No scoring system can put a number on this!
7.Mouton-Rothschild...neither vintage compared to the other first growths, but both wines were outstanding,just less impressive than their peers...I gave the 95 a 1-2 point edge,the only 95 from the Medoc to perform better than a 96.
8.Latour....Both profound,but slight preference to 96..can't go wrong with either vintage.
9. Margaux....again two profound wines, but only one vintage gets the magical three digit score..the 96.
10.Haut-Brion...I thought this would be a slam dunk for the 95,but it was closer than I thought....the 95 had more thickness/texture, but aromatics on 96 were addictive..but 95 is the superior wine.
Conclusions(one day..one tasting)....96 Medocs are killer wines and worthy rivals to any recent great vintage in the Medoc. The 95s are top-flight,and seem to be emerging from a rather charmless period.