FARR VINTNERS – BORDEAUX EN PRIMEUR 2003
THE HOTTEST VINTAGE EVER!
2003 – An extraordinary summer has produced an extraordinary vintage! Between April and September there were only 248 millimetres of rain in Bordeaux which is the second lowest ever recorded – the record belongs to 1961. However, sunshine levels and temperatures beat all previous statistics hands down. The old record for average summer temperature was held by 1976 with 19 degrees celsius but in 2003 the average was 20.5 degrees. Normally, Bordeaux experiences about 20 summer days with temperatures above 30 degrees but this year there were 53 such days. In August temperatures averaged nearly 30 degrees and on four separate days the thermometers hit 40 degrees (104 degrees F.). Quite simply, it was the hottest summer ever. The results of this heat-wave were low yields (about 35% down on average), record degrees of sugar content, dark colours and ripe tannins. The harvest began at Haut Brion (for the white grapes) on August 13th – the earliest since 1893 and for the Merlots at La Mission on August 19th – the earliest start to a vintage ever. Comparisons are being made with historic “hot†vintages such as 1947. Young vines suffered, as did those that were over-exposed to the sun, but many wines produced from old vines with deep roots (especially Cabernet Sauvignon) on great terroirs are quite outstanding.
In general, this is clearly a great Cabernet Sauvignon vintage and very much a left-bank vintage. Many Médoc Chateaux have produced the greatest young wines in a generation, surpassing the quality of even 2000, 1990, 1989 and 1982. That is not to say that there are no great Merlot or Cabernet Franc based wines on the Right Bank but these grape varieties did not cope nearly as well with the stress of the scorchingly hot summer and we found only a handful of truly top class wines in Saint Emilion and only one in Pomerol. Those who picked their Merlots early have done well but those who waited have over-ripe, ugly, unbalanced wines. On the contrary, Médoc producers who waited for full phenolic maturity of their thick-skinned Cabernet Sauvignons and picked late are the most successful. In the Graves quality is mixed but generally good, with several excellent wines. In the Southern Médoc and Margaux quality is good but more variable and it seemed to us that the further North we travelled the better the wines. Almost every single wine that we tasted in Saint Julien, Pauillac and Saint Estèphe was very good (even Chateaux that are normally mediocre), and the top Chateaux in these communes have produced some of the greatest wines that we have ever tasted en primeur.
2003 is not, overall, as consistently good a vintage as 2000 but we think that there may well be more individually great wines in 2003 than in 2000. Interestingly, James Suckling of The Wine Spectator magazine rates an unprecedented 23 wines in the top 95-100 points score range (more than in 2000).
Stylistically, this is a vintage of low acidity and many Right Bank wines show a lack of balance and structure. However, we were amazed that most of the top wines of the Médoc do show classic Bordeaux character. We were prepared for Australian-type richness but were pleased to discover that, despite the incredible ripeness of fruit, the wines are opulent but retain their unique Bordeaux balance and breeding, with classic structure and acidity. These wines may well be exuberant and powerful but they are still very much “claret†with great elegance and finesse.
This is a vintage that every Bordeaux lover will want to buy en primeur but it is important to select the right wines. There are some absolute classics from the top producers and there are also some remarkably good wines from cru bourgeois properties in the Médoc that we expect to be sold at very modest prices. For example, In 2003 there are humble Chateaux in Left Bank villages that have out-performed some of the most famous and expensive wines of Pomerol.
We expect huge demand this year for the top thirty or forty wines of the vintage. Thanks to our buying power and excellent relations with the leading “negociants†of Bordeaux, we are confident that we will be able to source good quantities of the best wines for our customers; but production is down and demand is up and so there will not be enough wine for everyone. It is essential, therefore, to register your interest with us now for the Chateaux that you are considering buying so that you will receive our opening offer on the day of release. Wines that are over-subscribed will be sold on an allocation basis to those customers who buy (as Farr Vintners does) “across the boardâ€. As much as we would love to supply all requests for Lafite and Cos d'Estournel 2003, we already know that this will be quite impossible.
Why Buy En Primeur?
The main advantage of buying en primeur is to purchase a wine at the initial release price. Some wines are subsequently seldom available commercially and most, it is expected, will be more expensive if bought later on. Furthermore, en primeur purchasing gives buyers the assurance that they have owned a wine since before it was even bottled so that when they subsequently come to drink it they know exactly where the wine has been (and how it has been stored) all its life. Provenance is priceless. Also, buying en primeur allows the purchaser to choose the bottle size. For those who like, for example, their wine in half-bottles or double-magnums it is essential to buy now!
Buying En Primeur
These 2003 wines will be bottled towards the end of 2005 and will be released in the Spring of 2006. Our prices are in £ Sterling per case of one dozen bottles. The wines are sold lying in bond UK. Prices therefore include delivery from France, insurance and warehouse receiving charges, but they exclude duty and V.A.T. which will be payable only if wines are later cleared from bond. Customers who wish to buy for export, under bond transfer or under bond collection have nothing further to pay. No storage charges are payable until after physical availability in June 2006. Payment is due on receipt of invoice.
You may choose to have your 2003s bottled in halves, magnums, double magnums and impériales at a small extra cost. Please ask Elaine Coe for details. NB: All wines will, initially, be invoiced in cases of 12 x 75cl. Later this year, at the end of the en primeur campaign, orders for special sizes may be placed and will be passed on by us to our suppliers in Bordeaux and are subject to their acceptance.
Why Buy En Primeur from Farr Vintners?
You can buy en Primeur in complete confidence from Farr Vintners. We are Britain's biggest fine wine merchant and are the holders of numerous “Bordeaux Specialist Wine Merchant of the Year†and “Fine and Rare Wine Merchant of the Year†awards. No British wine company buys more classed growth Bordeaux than us and, consequently, we enjoy excellent relations with the leading Bordeaux proprietors and negociants. Farr Vintners has been trading successfully and reliably for over 25 years and is the leading British buyer of Bordeaux en Primeur. Furthermore, we pride ourselves on offering our customers seriously informed and honest advice on what to buy and, just as important, what not to buy. (Which of our competitors was it who claimed that 1997 Bordeaux was “worthy of investment†?).
It is important to buy en primeur from a successful wine merchant with a good reputation and a track record of delivering the goods (and not just at the cheapest possible price). Please do let us know if one of our competitors is offering the same wine as us at a lower price but bear in mind that peace of mind and reliability of supply are worth far more than a slightly discounted price.
Notes on the En Primeur Report
All prices marked est are estimated by us as these Chateaux had not released their prices at the time of publication of this report. If you would like to be offered any of these wines on the day of release at a firm price then please get in touch with us (
Cette adresse e-mail est protégée contre les robots spammeurs. Vous devez activer le JavaScript pour la visualiser.) with a list of which wines are of interest to you or click the relevant names on the web site. This en primeur report will be updated daily with latest news, reviews, scores and firm prices in the en primeur section of our web site
www.farrvintners.com .
For information, we also include the current market price of all Chateaux in 2000 and an average price of mature vintages of similar quality to 2003. These are quoted as rough guidelines only. As a general rule, we would advise that 2003's should only be purchased if offered cheaper than the current price of the 2000 vintage and at no more than half the price of a mature vintage of the same wine.
Scores used to rate the wines in this report are from the following sources :
(FV) –The average score (out of 20) from the ten members of the Farr Vintners team, with several wines marked recommended or good value which offer particularly high quality and are expected to be sold at modest prices.
(JR) – Jancis Robinson's scores from the purple pages of her excellent web site
www.jancisrobinson.com
(WS) – James Suckling (out of 100) from “Wine Spectator†magazine. Read his report on
www.winespectator.com
(RP) – Robert Parker (out of 100) from “The Wine Advocateâ€
THE WINES OF THE VINTAGE
The Farr Vintners Wines of the Vintage
The 20 most outstanding wines of 2003 as chosen by the Farr Vintners team.
Lafite
Latour
Margaux
Montrose
Cos d'Estournel
Ausone
Haut Brion
Pichon Baron
Pichon Lalande
Mouton Rothschild
Gruaud Larose
Léoville Barton
Léoville Lascases
Lynch Bages
Eglise Clinet
Talbot
Grand Puy Lacoste
Léoville Poyferré
La Mission Haut Brion
Pape Clément
The Farr Vintners Great Value Wines of the Vintage
The 10 best classic wines at around or under £20 per bottle
De Fieuzal Rouge
Domaine de Chevalier Rouge
Prieuré Lichine
Lagrange
Langoa Barton
Armailhac
Batailley
Duhart Milon
Haut Batailley
Ormes de Pez
The Farr Vintners Bargains of the Vintage
10 great wines at around or under £10 per bottle
Villa Bel-Air
Aurilhac
La Bernadotte
Branas Grand Poujeaux
Charmail
La Tour Carnet
La Gurgue
Du Tertre
Haut Beycehevelle Gloria
Meyney
James Suckling's Wines of the Vintage
Wines rated 95-100 on
www.winespectator.com
Angélus
Ausone
Cheval Blanc
Clerc Milon
Cos d'Estournel
Gruaud Larose
Haut Brion
Lafite
Lafleur
Latour
Léoville Barton
Léoville Lascases
Margaux
La Mission Haut Brion
La Mondotte
Montrose
Mouton Rothschild
Pavie
Pétrus
Pichon Baron
Pichon Lalande
Pontet Canet
Trotanoy
Best value wines rated by James Suckling
This is our selection of wines that we hope to offer at below £20 per bottle rated 92-100 by James Suckling
Clerc Milon
Aiguilhe
Armailhac
Clos du Marquis
Duhart Milon
Giscours
Kirwan
Lagrange
Langoa Barton
Malescot St Exupery
Smith Haut Lafitte
Talbot
Steven Spurrier's Top Ten Wines of the Vintage.
One of Britain's most respected wine tasters. His tasting notes can be found at
www.decanter.com
Latour
Lafite
Margaux
Montrose
Haut Brion
Léoville Lascases
Cos d'Estournel
Mouton Rothschild
Léoville Barton
Pontet Canet
Barry Phillips' Wines of the Vintage
Barry ran the famous White Horse Inn at Chilgrove for 30 years and we reckon that he has tasted more fine wine than almost anyone else in the country.
Lafite
Latour
Cos d'Estournel
Montrose
Ausone
Pichon Lalande
Margaux
Léoville Lascases
Pichon Baron
Gruaud Larose
Barry Phillips' Wines Best Buys
Beychevelle
Branaire
Talbot
Duhart Milon
Haut Batailley
Les Ormes de Pez
Armailhac
De Fieuzal
Brane Cantenac
D'Issan
Coming soon :
Please see our website
www.farrvintners.com for details as soon as they are published.
Jancis Robinson's Wines of the Vintage
Robert Parker's Wines of the Vintage
Clive Coates' Wines of the Vintage
PESSAC-LEOGNAN/GRAVES
Carmes Haut Brion (FV 15) (RP xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 330, mature = N/A) £180 – 250 est
This small, well situated property near Haut Brion will produce just 20,000 bottles in 2003 from an encepagement that reads more like that of a Saint Emilion - 50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc and only 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. The yield was 36 hl/ha. Dark colour, creamy with spice from the new oak. Dense black fruit. Fairly firm. Quite good.
Domaine de Chevalier (FV 16+)(RP xx)(JR xx)(WS xx-xx) (2000 = 260, mature = 460) £180 – 220 est
Olivier Bernard has engaged superstar winemaker Stéphane Derenoncourt (of La Mondotte, Canon la Gaffelière, Pavie Macquin fame) and the wine has benefited greatly from his input. Usually modestly priced, one hopes that the recent increase in quality here will not result in an increase in price and if that is the case, this will be a wine to buy. 7500 cases will be produced from only 40% of all the grapes harvested – 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc. A superb nose of wood-smoke and creamy coconut, lovely smooth and elegant. A fine Graves character and a fruit cocktail on the palate. This is quietly very, very classy with a superb polished character. Charming and beautifully made. This is a wine that those looking for gobs of extracted decadence will totally fail to understand. Really lovely. Recommended.
de Fieuzal (FV 16) (RP xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 200, mature = 350) £150 – 180 est
Now owned by Irish banker Lochlann Quinn. The winemaker is Jean-Luc Marchive – formerly of L'Evangile. Only 50% of the crop will be used for the Grand Vin this year – 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot with picking starting in early September and ending in early October. Monsieur Marchive describes the wine as “Elegant, volumineux, puissant.†The nose is fabulously exotic with great Graves complexity – smoky, earthy and tarry. The palate is complex with cigar-box, cedar and mineral character. Good class and breeding with a polished, silky texture. Not over-concentrated but a very fine example of what it is. Recommended.
Haut Bailly (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 265, mature = 350) £180 – 250 est
56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc. The grapes were picked over a 4 week period with the Cabernet Sauvignon left on the vines until the end of September. Veronique Sanders describes the wine as “un vin a la fois puissant et veloutéâ€. Firm and quite tough but good fruit behind the tannins. Will need some time to come round but we always find Haut Bailly difficult to judge at this age.
Haut Bergey (FV 14) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 320, mature = n/a) £150 – 240 est
Under the same ownership as Clos l'Eglise in Pomerol and Barde Haut in Saint Emilion. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot always picked very ripe and much loved by Robert Parker. The 2003 is plush and modern on the nose with a nice polished texture. It seems a little lacking in structure and density and after the attractive new oak nose it tails off to a short finish.
Haut Brion (FV 18.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 2500, mature = 2500) £900 + est
58% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc. Less than 10,000 cases this year (the smallest vintage in years apart from 1991) with yields of 36 hl/ha. Inky opaque colour, open, exotic ripe blackcurrant on the nose with a sheen of classy new wood. Classic Graves allspice character. Sweeter and less evidently tannic than La Mission. Very elegant and refined. Great class. “Incredibly intense aromas of tobacco, chocolate, toasted oak and currants. Super-ripe and exotic. This reminds me of the 1989. Jean-Philippe Delmas says that it could be better than 2000. I certainly agree.†WS
Bahans Haut Brion (FV 15.5+)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS 89-91) (2000 = 265, mature = 500) £200 – 250 est
The second wine of Château Haut Brion, produced this year from 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc. Meaty and tarry on the nose this is classic Graves with some good sweetness. “Very pretty. Lovely fruit. Really good second wine from Haut Brion. Better than 2000?†WS
La Mission Haut Brion (FV 17+)(RPxx)(JR xx)(WS 95-100)(2000 = 2500, m= 2000) £600 – 1000 est
Frequently the equal of sister-Chateau Haut Brion, this is normally a good buy en primeur as it is released at a lower price but achieves First Growth prices when mature. Produced from 52% Merlot and 48% Cabernet Sauvignon. Less than 5000 cases produced this year. Chocolate truffles to start with but it becomes increasingly concentrated and dense with loads of structure. A big wine that we found hard to taste but it could well turn out to be a truly great La Mission. “Fantastic aromas of violets, berries and currants with hints of wood. Full-bodied, with super-refined tannins and a lovely silky finish. Very refined yet powerful and structured. It builds and builds.†WS
La Chapelle de la Mission (FV 14)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS xx-xx) (2000 = 225, m = n/a) 150- 180 est
The second wine of La Mission Haut Brion is where the Cabernet Franc has gone this year. The blend is 50% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. Pepper and spice, quite earthy. Forward style. Will provide attractive young drinking.
La Tour Haut Brion (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 350, mature = 400) £240 – 300 est
A separate 4 hectare vineyard adjoining (and made by) La Mission Haut Brion. 68% Merlot and 32% Cabernet Sauvignon. Exotic, spicy nose. Thick and tarry with great density. This is a very impressive, chunky wine.
Larrivet Haut Brion (FV 14) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 200, mature = 250) £150 – 180 est
Opulent wine is made here with the help of Michel Rolland from 55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon. Not the deepest of colours, this seems to be a wine that will evolve quickly and give early pleasure. Cream and silk but not much depth.
Malartic Lagravière (FV 14.5)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS xx-xx) (2000 = 210, mature = 200) £150 – 180 est
A much improved Chateau in recent years with nearly as much second wine being produced as Grand Vin (approx 60:40). The encepagement is 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. Medium weight with attractive red cherry fruit. Good balance, nicely done but not top class on today's showing. Good early drinker.
Pape Clément (FV 17+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 380, mature = 500) £350 – 420 est
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, produced from low yields. Owner Bernard Magrez has made serious investments here since the late 1990's and the 2001 was one of the top wines of the vintage. Extraordinary depth and opulence to this wine. Huge and decadent with super-ripe black cherry fruit. Great power and persistence. A beautiful cloak of velvet envelops the body and masks the tannins. Very impressive. “Very rich nose of chocolate, tobacco and bright berries. Full-bodied, soft and luscious with ripe tannins and a long, delicious finish. Fine wine.â€WS
Poumey (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = n/a, mature = n/a) £100 – 150 est
Bernard Magrez, owner of Pape Clément, also owns this neighbouring property. Deep and chunky. There is also a modern special cuvee called La Serenité de Poumey which is huge with big black cherry fruit character. Rated 89-91 by Wine Spectator “Very nice indeedâ€.
Smith Haut Lafitte (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 300, mature = n/a) £220 – 280 est
Daniel and Florence Cathiard transformed this property in the early 1990s and have been making decadent, modern, sexy wines here since then which combine flavours of classic earthy Graves and silky, seductive new oak. 60% of the crop will go into the first wine with 7500 cases produced from 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc in 80% new oak. Yields were a mere 25hl/ha. Comparisons are made with the excellent 1996 vintage produced here and also with 1947. Lots of new wood and barrel char on the nose with thick, ripe cherry fruit behind. Sweet, good texture, some thick tannins and structure. Good length. A very attractive wine that marries spicy vanilla oak with ripe fruit. “Dark colour, intense aromas of black berries and licorice. Full-bodied with solid tannins and a long silky finish. Excellent depth here. Very well crafted. Smith Haut Lafitte continues to get better each year.†WS
Villa Bel-Air (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 90, mature = n/a) £60–80est
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. For the first time there is 20% new oak. The Cabernets were picked late – 23-27th September. This property is owned by Jean-Michel Cazes of Lynch Bages and it has produced a delicious wine that we are promised will be sold at a very modest price. Juicy, sweet, cherry and blackcurrant fruit, pure, ripe and nicely balanced with hints of vanilla pods and mint. Really attractive.This will drink well for 10 years from bottling. We loved this wine. Better than the 2000. A great bargain. Highly Recommended.
HAUT-MEDOC and MOULIS
d'Aurilhac (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = n/a, mature = n/a) £75 - 100 est
Situated in the very Northern-most part of the Médoc near Sociando Mallet – the most successful area this year. Wow! What an amazingly dark saturated colour. Intense black cherry nose. Rich, concentrated and sweet with lots of glycerol and rounded ripe tannins. All elements in balance and not over-extracted despite the great depth. Big, thick but soft. Very impressive performance from this little-known cru bourgeois property. Highly Recommended.
Belgrave (FV 14) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = n/a, mature = n/a) £100 - 140 est
This little-known Chateau is actually a classed growth and this year it caught our eye with an impressive black colour and and inky concentration of black fruits. Punchy and powerful if somewhat lacking in sophistication.
La Bernadotte (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 115, mature = n/a) £75 - 100 est
Owned by Pichon Lalande and the wine is made by the same talented winemaking team. This property has produced enjoyable, forward, attractive and modestly priced wines in recent years and we feel that this is the best vintage so far. A lovely nose of toasty vanilla and creamy fruit. Gorgeous cassis, mulberries and blueberries. A real summer pudding with dollops of cream. Ripe, modern, plush and sexy. This is flattering and juicy – very much an entry level version of Pichon Lalande. Will be a lovely early-maturer. Recommended.
Branas Grand Poujeaux (FV 15.5)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS xx-xx)(2000 = n/a, mature = n/a) £90 - 130 est
This 5.5 hectare property in Moulis has seen major investment and Michel Rolland now advises on wine-making. It is situated between Chasse Spleen and Poujeaux. 63% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5 % Petit Verdot with maturation in 100% new oak barrels. Modern wine-making techniques are used here such as micro-bullage, elevage sur lie and temperature control. Deep colour, sweet, modern and exotic on the nose with cherry and vanilla. Nicely balanced. Sweet, sexy fruit on the palate. Good depth. An impressive effort - should be Great Value.
Cambon La Pelouse (FV 14) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 90, mature = N/A) £80 - 100 est
This property is well situated at the edge of the Margaux appellation between Giscours and Cantemerle. Purchased by the Marie family in 1996, there has been serious investment here and yet prices have remained modest. This is a Merlot-style wine (60% of the final blend with 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Cabernet Franc). Plump, rich wine with nice ripeness. A plump, Merlot style. Well-rounded with good glycerol. Smooth with lots of fruit.
Cantemerle (FV 14.5+?) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 170, mature = 350) £110 – 140 est
A popular Classed Growth Château from the southern Médoc. Always provides reliable quality and value for money. 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 9% Petit Verdot (more than normal). Ripe tannins here make this an attractive easy-drinking wine. Forward, quite plump and charming.
Charmail (FV 15.5+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 180, mature = N/A) £90 - 125 est
This property in the far North of the Médoc made a fabulous 2000 (Parker rating 93) and is certainly one to look out for as quality is now regularly at classed growth levels but prices remain modest. 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc. Has been described as “the new Sociando Malletâ€. Very Impressive depth here – really thick, rich, fleshy and sweet. Great concentration with layers of black cherry fruit. A little sweeter and more approachable than Sociando Mallet but shares the same powerful physique. Good wine! Recommended.
Chasse Spleen (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 180, mature = 320) £130
63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc.The leading Chateau of the Moulis appellation. Good, deep colour. Quite firm and structured. Chewy and tannic. Quite tough to taste now but should turn out well. One of the first properties to release and at £130, this seems modestly priced.
Goulée (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = N/A, mature = N/A) £140 – 200 est
Jean-Guillaume Prats of Cos d'Estournel has made this wine from an 8 hectare vineyard of old Cabernet vines in the northern part of the Médoc. 800 cases will be produced by very modern “new world†methods. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot. Incredibly dark black extracted colour. Initially tight and closed but there is great opulence here. Lots of glycerol on the palate with sweet, spicy new world fruit but good structure too. Exciting new wine.
Les Grandes Chênes (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = n/a, mature = n/a) £75 - 100 est
This property is also situated in the North of the Médoc and is owned by Bernard Magrez of Pape Clément who has spared no expense to make top class wines at all his properties. Monsieur Magrez has a great passion for producing the best wines possible at each of his Chateaux and the great improvements that we have already witnessed at La Tour Carnet and Fombrauge are being mirrored here. Intense blackcurrant/cassis and lots of creamy new oak. Lovely creamy nose, very plump and sweet. Impressive, flattering and sexy style. “Silky and rich with blackberry and licorice character. Medium to full-bodied, well integrated tannins and a medium finishâ€. WS
La Lagune (FV 14.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 200, mature = 400) £150 – 180 est
A popular classed growth situated south of Margaux near Cantemerle. Cabernet Sauvignon 55%, Merlot 30%, Petit Verdot 10%, Cabernet Franc 5%. Maturation in 60% new oak. Winemaker Patrick Moulin compares 2003 with 1982, 1983 and 1995. Impressive depth, this is robust and chunky. We found it difficult to taste today but there is plenty to it and maybe it will deserve a higher score as it softens.
Potensac (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 130, mature = 240) £90 – 120 est This Northern Médoc property is owned by the producers of Léoville Lascases and it is consistently one of the best Cru Bourgeois thanks to their unstinting pursuit of quality. The addition of newly purchased vines means that there is more Merlot in the blend than before. 33% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Cabernet Franc.30% new oak. “ A wonderful abundance of crushed fruits on the nose. Full-bodied, with loads of ripe berry fruit and super-silky tannins. Then long. This might be the best Potensac I have ever had – almost 92-94.†WS
Poujeaux (FV 14.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 150, mature = 250) £120 – 150 est
Consistently attractive and popular Cru Bourgeois, made with 40% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. Invariably of classed growth quality and always forward and exotic with a toasty oak character. This year it has the usual characteristics and is relatively soft so should be an attractive early drinker.
Sociando Mallet (FV 16+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 260, mature = 420) £160 – 220 est
This is a serious and consistent Northern Médoc property whose wines have been of top Classed Growth quality for many years. Made from 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, aged in all-new oak, the wines here are always dense and impressive. Black and inky. A monster wine and perhaps the best Sociando Mallet ever. This wine is sometimes too tough for its own good but in 2003 (like in 1996 and 1990) the Cabernet has reached optimum ripeness and there is an extra dimension of richness as well as power and density. Big stuff. “Beautiful aromas of raspberries, licorice and currants follow through to a full-bodied palate with silky tannins and a long finish. Another 1990 in the making?†WS Recommended.
La Tour Carnet (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 150, mature = n/a) £115 – 140 est
This 4th growth Cru Classé has recently benefited from substantial investment from new owner Bernard Magrez of Château Pape Clément. He has produced very impressive, concentrated wines since 2000 that bear no relation to the mediocre La Tour Carnets of old. Burnt and roasted new oak on the nose. Fleshy and ripe on the palate with good structure and balance. Wonderful opulent black fruit here. Plump and sexy. Recommended.
MARGAUX
Brane Cantenac (FV 16.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 275, mature = 350) £175 – 240 est
A 2nd growth property whose wines have improved in quality considerably in recent vintages yet remain typically Margaux in character. This is a beautiful wine which is wonderfully creamy and supple. Realatively light but well balanced and rounded. Tannins are soft and not astringent. Elegant and mineral and it tastes like real Margaux!
Complexity not jam.
Cantenac Brown (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 220, mature = 300) £140 – 180 est
Owned by the AXA insurance group and managed by Englishman Christian Seely who also runs Pichon Baron and Suduiraut. This is the best Cantenac Brown that we have tasted en primeur. Good density and deep chewy fruit. “Very good indeed†WS
Durfort Vivens (FV 14.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 180, mature = 240) £140 – 180 est
This is another 2nd growth property owned by the Lurton family of Brane Cantenac. The 30 hecatres of vines are planted 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc. Gonzagues Lurton is a man on a mission and this is definitely a property on the up. This is a quietly classy wine that is not at all showy but delivers fine Cabernet character and the purity of the appellation. “Tarry and fruity with a hint of cigar tobacco. Full-bodied, chewy and rich. Long finish. Shows potential.â€
Ferrière (FV 15.5+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 200, mature = N/A) £140 – 180 est
This small Chateau (a third growth in the 1855 clasification) has been run by Claire Villars for a few years now and recent vintages have been very impressive. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. Good substance here and quite a bit of structure. Good grip for the vintage. There is real depth of Cabernet fruit and a long finish. Fine and pure. “Well integrated tannins. Very fine and elegant for the vintage.†WS
Giscours (FV 16.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 240, mature = 380) £165 – 220 est
Serious improvements are taking place here with a new Technical Director brought in from Cos d'Estournel. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot with none of the Cabernet Franc used. Elevage in 50% new oak and 50% 1 year old oak. Those who remember the 1970 Giscours will know that this Chateau can make great wine when they put their minds to it. Very impressive – is this the best Giscours since then? Excellent depth, fleshy and sweet with ripe tannins. Great Margaux purity. “Intense aromas of cooked fruit and prunes. Full-bodied with rich and ripe fruit character. Soft, round tannins and a long finish. Heady and rich. Port-like. Could be the legendary 1970 in the re-make.†WS. Recommended
La Gurgue (FV 15) (FV xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 110, mature = n/a) £90 – 120 est
This low profile Cru Bourgeois (they don't send samples to Mr Parker!) is produced by the same team as Ferrière and Haut Bages Liberal and has been making very good wines at modest prices for the last few vintages. Lovely spicy nose, soft fruit – this is a beautifully crafted wine of good purity, class and breeding. “Rich and round, with lovely wild fruit character. Velvety tannins and a long, long finish. Big juicy wine. Well done.†WS. Good value.
Issan (FV 15.5) (FV xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 250, mature = 300) £155 – 200 est
Emmanuel Cruse has seriously increased the quality here in recent years without pushing up the price. Production is 30% down to 7500 cases, 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot with 50% new wood. Yields down to 36 hl/ha. The aim here is to go for balance not over-extraction. Emmanuel believes it to be one of the best wines that he has ever made – similar to the 2000 but with more elegance. A Margaux that tastes like Margaux – sweet blackcurrant, not forced, smoky mineral character. Not a heavyweight but elegant and supple.
Kirwan (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 285, mature = 275) £140 – 180 est
Made under the guidance of Michel Rolland. Always one of the most opulent wines of the appellation. Very deep colour, with extracted, plump fruit. Quite decadent in style. 7,000 cases produced (instead of the normal 10,000) with 60% of the crop making it into the Grand Vin. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot. Yield 32 hl/ha. A sexy wine with a milk chocolate palate. Concentrated, warm and modern – reminiscent of licorice sherbert dip. Well made if not classic. We could confidently mistake this as right-bank in a blind tasting. “Beautiful, bold and polished with blackberry and cedar aromas and flavours. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a long, long finish. New world style. Delicious yet structured.†WS
Lascombes (FV 14) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 215, mature = 275) £200 – 300 est
Now advised by Alain Reynaud of La Fleur de Gay and Quinault L'Enclos with a total transformation in quality similar to that which has taken place at Pavie. Thick, impressive wines are now being made here, with elevage sur lie in 90% new oak but there has been some criticism that they are no longer typical of the appellation. This is partly because the vineyard contains more Merlot than is usual in Margaux – 50%, with 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot. “Intense aromas of black licorice and minerals. Full bodied with lots of fruit and velvety tannins. Very long. Yummy already. Well done.†WS
Malescot St Exupery (FV 15)(RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94)(2000 = 270, mature = 300) £165 – 210 est
A much-improved Chateau whose wines have impressed us over the last few years. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. Concentrated on the palate with deliciously sweet red berry fruits. Ripe and round but firm structured. “Wonderful aromas of blackberries, dark chocolate, meat and other yummy decadent things, changing to dry flowers. Full bodied, with super well integrated tannins and a long, fresh finish. Silky backbone of tannins. Serious wine.†WS
Margaux (FV 19) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 3000, mature = 2400) £900 + est
Paul Pontallier reports a very low yield of 30 hl/ha. The success of all grape varieties has resulted in a slightly higher percentage of the much reduced total crop (45%) going into the Grand Vin this year. It is 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12 % Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. Monsieur Pontallier compares it to 1982, 1989 and 1990 and says that it has the richness of 1989 with the concentration and structure of 1986. Unctuous cassis and vanilla. Wonderfully intense sweet black fruit. Plenty of structure and tannin but balanced by the sweet ripe fruit. A big and great Margaux. “Very rich and decadent for Margaux. Full-bodied, with a solid core of sweet and silky tannins and a long, long finish. This is very racy and rich, with a fabulous velvety texture. Goes on and on. The most concentrated Margaux ever.†WS
Pavillon Rouge (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 330, mature = 420) £200 – 250 est
45% of Margaux's crop went into the Grand Vin, 50% into this, the second wine, with 5% being sold off in bulk. Pavillon is made from 57% Cabernet Sauvignon this year with 38% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc. Great concentration but this is so opulent and open-hearted that it will be hard to resist at an early age. A lovely, classy wine.
Marojallia (FV ?) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 850, mature = n/a) £500 + est
Controversial Garage Wine made by Murielle Andraud (wife of Jean-Luc Thunevin). It has been produced from 2 hectares of vines (30% Merlot, 60% Cabernets) from yields of 20 hectos/hectare (unheard of in the Médoc). Extremely dense, powerful, inky and hard. This would be unrecognisable as a Margaux in a blind tasting. We don't really know what to write here as we found it to be tough, sweet and jammy whilst James Suckling of the Wine Spectator describes it as having “Very fine tannins and a fresh finish. Pretty wineâ€
Palmer (FV 17) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 900, mature = 800) £500 – 750 est
Traditionally the finest wine of the Médoc after the 1st growths, Palmer slipped a bit in the 1980's but has returned to top form recently. This was the hottest vintage in the last 50 years at Palmer and the second earliest harvest ever with yields of only 25 hl/ha. This year it is 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 12% Petit Verdot, although the vineyard is planted with equal quantities of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Delicate perfume of cherry and roses. Beautiful rather than powerful with a lovely silky, elegant structure. Not too heavy, this is classic, pretty, complex and delightful. Great purity. Very Fine.
Alter Ego de Palmer (FV 14.5)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 240, mature = n/a) £180 – 240 est
The 2nd wine of Palmer, made from a high proportion of Merlot (47%) and matured in 25% new oak barrels. 35% of the vineyard's production. Atractive and easy-going with strawberry fruit. Forward, soft and supple.
Prieuré Lichine (FV 16.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 200, mature = 300) £165 – 200 est
New owners and a new wine-maker, Stéphane Derenoncourt (of La Mondotte fame) since 1999. This is a property where the quality (but not the price) has increased significantly recently. 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, with 60% new oak used. They describe their wine as being “tres aromatique avec beaucoup de rondeur et de soyeuxâ€. We were very impressed with this wine which is the best Prieuré that we have ever tasted. There is a lovely, fragrant vanilla nose. On the palate it is beautifully smooth, supple and silky with good depth and intensity of cherry and blackcurrants. Good Margaux typicity. This is a great example of modern winemaking that also shows a deep respect for the terroir. “Nice wine.†WS. Recommended
Rauzan Ségla (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx)(JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 420, mature = 500) £250 – 320 est
Now comfortably established in the super-second league. Huge efforts are being made by owners Chanel to make great wine, with production of the first wine only 47% of the total harvest. John Kolasa, formerly of Château Latour is in charge here. There are under 7000 cases this year made from 53.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 1.5% Cabernet Franc – yield 30 hl/ha. “A big and bold wine with loads of blackberry, tobacco and toasted oak character. Full bodied and rich with a decadent berry aftertaste. Long finish. Wild retro red.†WS
Du Tertre (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 175, mature = 240) £120 – 180 est
This property is now producing very good wines again with the same winemaking team as Giscours. One third each Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with a little Malbec. The Chateau believe that the quality in 2003 is similar to that of 2000. Lovely plump fruit here. Plush and juicy, round and smooth. Lots of depth to it but it still retains the charm of Margaux. Very good and could be very good value. “Loads of cooked fruit with jammy, blackberry character. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a long finish. Nicely done.†WS. Recommended.
SAINT JULIEN
Beychevelle (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 250, mature = 500) £160 – 200 est
49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot. Sweet, with lots of ripe cherries. Very forward and attractive. Not the depth or complexity of the top Chateaux but there is no denying that it will be easy to appreciate and much enjoyed in its youth. The best Beychevelle in years. “Lovely silky wine with currant, mineral and berry character. Delicious already.†WS
Branaire (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 260, mature = 350) £150 – 200 est
72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 4.5% Petit Verdot, 3.5% Cabernet Franc. More Cabernet and less Merlot than normal. Good plump fruit like Beychevelle with an attractive nose of ripe fruit and creamy vanilla and a hint of cedar. All the elements in balance on the palate. “Blackberry and currant aromas and flavours, medium bodied with good tannins. Harmonious.†WS
Ducru Beaucaillou (FV 16.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 650, mature = 600) £280 – 450 est
82% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Merlot. 34 hl/ha. Good grip and structure but did not shine in our tasting as much as the other “super-secondsâ€. “Gorgeous blackberry, licorice and raspberry with hints of minerals. Full bodied and super-long. Silky and beautiful. Really long and fine. You have to like this. Seductive and harmonious red that grows on you. It's very rich in tannins but then shows lovely elegance. Almost 95-100.†WS
Gloria (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 180, mature = 300) £125 – 165 est
Neither cru classé nor cru bourgeois, this popular Chateau was created after the second world war from land purchased from adjoining classed growths. The 44 hectares are planted with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot with an average age of 45 years. Spicy, forward and generous. “Incredible aromas of black licorice and ripe currant character. Full-bodied, with soft and round tannins and a long finish. Blowsy. Lovely wine.â€
Gruaud Larose (FV 17.5+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 500, mature = 600) £240 – 320 est
66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot, 1% Malbec. 10% more Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% less Merlot than the normal blend. Sensational Gruaud. Unctuous sweet nose with smoke, cherry, blackcurrant and vanilla. On the palate there is fabulous complexity and power with hints of soy sauce and exotic spices. Layered and rich but balanced. Wonderful. “Pure cassis and raspberry sauce with vanilla. Full bodied, with big, velvety tannins and a finish that lasts a very long time. Awesome wine. This is very close in quality to the 2000.†WS
Haut Beychevelle Gloria (FV 15)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS xx-xx) (2000 = N/A, m = 180)£100 – 150 est
A well-situated property near Beychevelle that produces attractive but classic Saint Julien at modest prices. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc. Lovely nose of pepper and rosemary. Lovely spice on the palate with soft, creamy rounded fruit. Good value from Saint Julien.
Lagrange (FV 16.5+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 260, mature = 400) £160 – 220 est
An excellent Chateau that has quietly been producing top quality Saint Julien since the late 1980's. This quality level is partly achieved by the production of a very good second wine – Les Fiefs de Lagrange where (even in 2003) 47% of the vineyard's fruit is used. With 5% sold off that leaves less than half for the Grand Vin. This year it is 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. Winemaker Marcel Ducasse says that it is like a super-1989 but more classic and structured. Great depth. Real power and concentration. Rich and roasted and packed with classic cassis fruit and a bite of pepper from the Petit Verdot. Impressive stuff from a Chateau that is out-performing its price level. “Beautiful aromas of plums, violets, berries and licorice. Full-bodied, with super well-integrated tannins and a long finish. Very pretty indeed. Well-crafted, showing lots of character.†WS. Recommended
Langoa Barton (FV 16.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 250, mature = 360) £180 – 240 est
Léoville Barton's 15 hectare sister Chateau remains very fairly priced for the consistent quality. Grapes varieties, viticulture and vinification are similar to those of Léoville. The essence of ripe Cabernet Sauvignon. Opaque, sweet intense black cherry nose. Huge richness with black chocolate. Powerful and really impressive. Without doubt the best Langoa that we have ever tasted and really close in quality to the Léoville this year. “This is 2000 all over again but riper. Langoa is always good value.†WS. Recommended.
Léoville Barton (FV17.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 780, mature = 600) £300 + ? est
Consistently brilliant quality in recent years and a reasonable pricing policy makes this one of our best selling wines. If there is any one Bordeaux wine to buy en primeur every year, then this is it. Unfortunately there is 30% less wine this year. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 70% new oak. Winemaker Michel Raoult describes the wine as being “chennu, gras, equilibre et tres fruitéâ€. An extremely black, dense viscous wine. Initially closed but clearly a big, concentrated, dense monster. Fabulous depth, strong and sophisticated with a wonderful mix of density and complexity. A very fine wine. “Very impressive licorice, blackberry and mint. Some pencil. Full-bodied with silky tannins. Super-long. Wonderful. Is it as good as 2000? Maybe.†WS
Léoville Lascases (FV 17.5)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS 95-100) (2000 = 1500, mature = 1000) £500 – 750 est
In the last 20 years this has been the top-performing non-1st Growth in the Médoc. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc. 60% new oak. This year it represents 54% of the total production. Extremely dense dark colour. A great expression of ripe Cabernet Sauvignon – initially closed, licorice, tar, plenty of concentration. Crushed cherries, cassis and oak. Huge, muscular but great sweetness too. “Very complex. Layers of cashmere-like tannins turning to leather. Warm and inviting yet rich and powerful; fantastic purity yet voluptuous. This is what exciting wine is about.†WS
Clos du Marquis (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 240, mature = 360) £150 – 220 est
Like its next-door neighbour Latour, Léoville Lascases produces a second wine that is not really a second wine but is a vineyard of Classed Growth quality in its own right. Indeed, It has more concentration than many Classed Growths. This has been an outstanding performer for many years. 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot – 46% of the production of Lascases. A forward version of the Grand Vin. Spicy, complex and intense. Glycerol and warmth with the lift of sweet ripe fruit. “Delicious, super-fruity finish. Very long indeed. Cool and racy. Very fine.†WS
Léoville Poyferré (FV 17+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 480, mature = 550) £200 – 300 est
A big jump in quality here recently and like its neighbour Léoville Barton, Poyferré is always very good value for money. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. Very concentrated classic Cabernet nose. Ripe fruits on the palate. Creamy and fleshy. Sweet and juicy with layered tannins and structure. The most approachable and seductive of the 3 Léovilles. This is a beautiful, ripe wine that will be a joy to drink.
Talbot (FV 17+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 330, mature = 500) £170 – 250 est
A popular Chateau that always delivers good quality at reasonable prices. This is perhaps the best young Talbot that we have ever tasted. Deep colour with prune-like concentration. Very flattering, forward and appealing. Generous and long. “Big, silky tannins and a long, long finish. Super. Could be classic in quality. Could be better than 2000.†WS
PAUILLAC
Armailhac (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 210, mature = 360) £140 – 190 est
Always good value, this property was formerly known as Mouton Baronne Philippe. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot. Yield was a low 35 hl/ha with 25% of new oak elevage. The winemaking team compare it to the 1989. Smoky nose. Ripe Cabernet with an exotic toasty oak character. Lovely roasted, ripeness with black olives and tobacco. Rich and powerful. Serious yet very approachable. “Loads of blackberries, spices and minerals on the nose. Very rich and thick; this should be excellent.†WS. Recommended.
Batailley (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 160, mature = 300) £125 – 160 est
Very impressive Batailley – the best that we have ever tasted. Deep black colour. A nice surprise. Rich, ripe Cabernet nose. Concentrated and very well structured with dense black cherry fruit and excellent ripeness. A big, classic wine with lots of structure. Serious Pauillac. “Long on the palate. Rich. Serious effort here.†WS. Recommended.
Clerc Milon (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 240, mature = 380) £180 – 240 est
Like Armailhac, made by the Mouton Rothschild team. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Carminere. Yields were a mere 28 hl/ha and they believe that it is similar to the 1990. James Suckling of The Wine Spectator adored this “Full-bodied, super-tight and rich with velvety tannins and a long, long finish. A real beauty. This is a thick and powerful blockbuster – one of my old favourites. 6500 cases made.†WS
Duhart Milon (FV 16.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 200, mature = 350) £145 – 185 est
Produced by the team who make Lafite, and they have been on fire in recent vintages under Charles Chevalier. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc. A classic Pauillac with great black Cabernet Sauvignon fruit. Big structure but loads of ripe fruit. The best Duhart that we have ever tasted. “Lots of blackberry, mineral and cedar aromas follow through to a full-bodied palate, with firm tannins and a licorice, berry and light spice finish. Very tight, yet round. One of the best I have tasted from this estate.†WS. Recommended.
Grand Puy Ducasse (FV 15.5)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS 89-91) (2000 = 150, mature = 250) £135
Always moderately priced, but well-made Pauillac. A serious effort in the selection process has resulted in only 6500 cases produced this year with 10000 cases of second wine. We think that this is the best GPDs that we've ever tasted. 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot aged in 50% new oak. The 2003 vintage is compared here to 1947. Deep concentrated colour, gamey on the nose. Big, prune and black cherry fruit with good balance.“Tar, cedar and jam character. Long finish. Impressive…best wine in ages from here.†WS. 2003's first classed growth release.
Grand Puy Lacoste (FV 17+)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx-xx)(WS 89-91)(2000 = 400, mature = 500)£180 – 260 est
Xavier Borie consistently makes one of the finest Pauillacs and this is his first vintage in complete charge following his hand-over of Ducru to brother Bruno. 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Always a classic, minty, Cabernet-Sauvignon dominated Pauillac with blackcurrant character. The 2003 has real cassis Cabernet and Pauillac purity. Very classic and seamless. Great complexity, length and finish. A wonderful Grand Puy Lacoste. “Full and rich with loads of blackberry and cherry character. Ripe tannins. Long finish. Pretty red. Almost 92-94. Very good indeed.†WS. One of the wines of the vintage.
Haut Bages Libéral (FV 16) (RP xx-xx)(JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 160, mature = £240) £130 – 160 est
Some very fine vintages have quietly been produced here in recent years by the charming Claire Villars-Lurton in the classic style. She comes from a family steeped in Bordeaux tradition – she used to make Chasse Spleen (now run by her sister) her uncle owns Gruaud Larose; other relatives own many further Chateaux and her husband's family owns Durfort Vivens, Brane Cantenac, Climens etc. This is one of the fastest improving wines in Bordeaux right now. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot. Perfumed, elegant nose. Soft and sweet but with dark chocolate and cassis fruit. Polished and beautifully made. Great Pauillac that may provide fairly early drinking. “Intense aromas of jam, spice and blackberry. Soft finish. Nicely done.†WS
Haut Batailley (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 200, mature = 350) £130 – 175 est
Somewhat over-shadowed by the same owner's Grand Puy Lacoste, this property always produces classic Pauillac at a reasonable price. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Pure, defined Cabernet and minty nose, Great ripeness, not heavy but has prunes and a supple richness on the palate. Gorgeous and ripe. Recommended.
Lafite (FV 19.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 2750, mature = 2000) £900+ est
For many years now Lafite has been at the top of its game, always making one of the best wines of the vintage without fail. This year the blend is stacked with Cabernet Sauvignon – 86% with only 9% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Deep colour, fantastic opulent nose. Sweet, very ripe fruit, roasted coffee, pain grille, allspice. You can smell the heat of the vintage here. This is a brilliant Cabernet Sauvignon wine with blackcurrant fruit providing great power but all wrapped up in a robe of silk. Power and elegance in perfect harmony. Magnificent. Lasts for ages. Wine of the vintage? “Exciting, yet polished and refined. This is a rich and structured Lafite. Very classic style.†WS
Carruades de Lafite (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 285, mature = 360) £180 – 250 est
Lafite's second wine has improved in quality enormously in recent years thanks to ruthless selection processes in the production of the Grand Vin. Many vines that could easily produce fruit for Lafite are now allocated to the Carruades. Consequently, this year it contains nearly all of Lafite's Merlot – 50% of the blend here with 48% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. Big, juicy and generous on the palate, lots of cherry fruit. “Sweet plum and silky tannins. Long and pretty. Almost 92-94 points.†WS
Latour (FV 19) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 3000, mature = 2000) £900 + est
The dynamic Director of the Château, Frédéric Engerer, is determined to make the greatest wine possible at Latour and has the confidence of owner, François Pinault, to do all that it takes to achieve this aim. Production levels have been slashed in recent vintages with only the best parcels of vines now producing grapes for the Grand Vin. Consequently, there will only be 10,000 cases of Latour 2003 (53% of the total harvest). It is a classic Latour made from 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot with a dash of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Black, viscous, opaque. Very concentrated inky, masculine nose. On the palate there is tar, spice and a prune-like concentration with gobs of juicy rich fruit. Layers of ripe tannins, huge intense and structured with real complexity. Lovely length and finish. Huge, dense and classic. Truly great. “Thick yet elegant, with fantastic ripe tannins and exciting juicy fruit on the finish. This could be 1982 in the re-make but cleaner and classier.†WS
Les Forts de Latour (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 400, mature = 480) £240 – 300 est
Not really a second wine as this is made from a separate part of the vineyard which contains many old vines as well as from some vats that are not quite up to the standards of the Grand Vin de Château Latour. This year it represents 36% of the total production of Château Latour. However, grapes from the young vines of the estate (11% of total production) are used for the production of a third label “Pauillac de Ch Latour†which is not sold en primeur. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot. Intense cherry and cassis, not over-extracted there is lovely ripe Cabernet fruit here with a smooth texture. “Lovely wine. This wine is always more open and delicious in a young top vintage than Latour but there is good structure too.†WS
Lynch Bages (FV 17.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 650, mature = 850) £250 – 350 est
75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot aged in 70% new oak. Unfortunately there is 25% less wine this year. One of the most popular Châteaux of Bordeaux, especially in the UK. Release prices are modest compared to the prices that consumers are happy to pay for mature vintages. This is consistently one of our biggest selling wines and once again Lynch Bages delivers the goods. The Cabernet here was not picked until the very end of September and it is deep, powerful and ripe. A great, complex, mint, tar and cigar-box nose. Intense Cabernet character. Rounded and supple on the palate with a kick of tannin on the finish. Classic and delicious. “Very rich and decadent style to this. Full-bodied, velvety tannins and a delicious finish. Flashy wine. Long and seductive. Maybe even better in bottle.†WS
Lynch Moussas (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91)(2000 = 150, mature = 200) £100 – 150 est
This property has been making improvements in recent vintages and the 2000 was the best that we had ever tasted (and the first vintage that we ever sold). Spicy nose. Good Pauillac but yet quite supple and friendly. This will deliver attractive early drinking with the richness of the vintage and some smooth tannins. “Full bodied palate, with silky tannins and a pleasing finish. This place is getting it right this year.†WS
Mouton Rothschild (FV 18) (RP xx-xx)(JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 2500, mature = 1800) £900+ est
Production is down 20% on last year with a yield of only 32hl/ha. 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. Aged in 94% new oak. Hervé Berland feels that it is a really exceptional Mouton, comparable to the 1982. Classically Cabernet Sauvignon Mouton with prune-like richness and concentration married with an exotic spiciness. Brooding and powerful, building to a long finish. “Full-bodied with a big core of ripe fruit and super-ripe tannins. Thick and powerful. Chewy. Tannins come out of hiding and lash out on the finish.†WS
Pichon Baron (FV 18+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 600, mature = 850) £300 – 400 est
This great vineyard has been producing classic Pauillac since the late 1980's when Jean-Michel Cazes of Lynch Bages took control. For the last few years Englishman Christian Seely has been in charge and quality continues to rise. This wine was magnificent in 1990 when it rivalled the First Growths and this is a repeat performance. Absolutely awesome! Great, intense Cabernet character this has huge power and concentration but is also so polished and beautifully crafted with a sumptuous but massive mouth-feel. “Flamboyant. Full-bodied, with big velvety and wild fruit. Outrageous. This is one of the greatest bottles I have ever tasted from here. Like the 1989 or 1990. I can't get over it. It's really exciting.†WS
Tourelles de Longueville (FV 15+)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS 95-100)(2000 = 160, m = 300)£130–165 est
Those who have tasted the 1990 and 2000 know how fabulous this (the second wine of Pichon Baron) can be. Along with Les Forts de Latour, Clos du Marquis and Reserve de la Comtesse this is a wine that is regularly of true classed growth quality.
Pichon Lalande (FV 18) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 900, mature = 800) £380 - 480 est
One of THE great names of Bordeaux and a true much-loved “super-secondâ€. This year the blend is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot. The yield was down to 39 hl/ha and only 45% of the crop has been selected for the Grand Vin. Elevage in 50% new oak. For us this seems to be a return to the style of the great Pichon Lalandes with fabulous richness and opulence. The slight harshness that the Petit Verdot has given in the last few vintages has been toned down. Black cherries and violets on the nose, this is sexy, smooth, slick-textured and warm with fleshy tannins. Sumptuous, long and creamy. Absolutely drop-dead gorgeous. “This tastes like crushed grapes and red fruits. It's big and rich. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, long finish. Juicy wine. A cross between the 1995 and 1996. In fact, it could be better than 2000. Wonderful†WS
Pontet Canet (FV 17) (RP xx-xx (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 330, mature = 380) £180 – 250 est
Alfred Tesseron has been making classic Pauillac here every year since the excellent 1994. He tells us that after 25 years of making Pontet Canet this wine is of the highest quality he has ever seen. The final assemblage is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Black impenetrable colour. Huge, thick nose. Incredibly dense wine. This is a real powerhouse infused with roasted black fruits and tannin. It has the density of the super-seconds without the polish. Hugely impressive but will require patience. “Full-bodied, very rich and powerful with massive tannins but it finishes sweet and ripe. This is muscular, but then it turns to crushed fruit. Super-seductive. The best Pontet I have ever tasted.†WS
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