FARR VINTNERS – BORDEAUX EN PRIMEUR 2003

THE HOTTEST VINTAGE EVER!

2003 – An extraordinary summer has produced an extraordinary vintage! Between April and September there were only 248 millimetres of rain in Bordeaux which is the second lowest ever recorded – the record belongs to 1961. However, sunshine levels and temperatures beat all previous statistics hands down. The old record for average summer temperature was held by 1976 with 19 degrees celsius but in 2003 the average was 20.5 degrees. Normally, Bordeaux experiences about 20 summer days with temperatures above 30 degrees but this year there were 53 such days. In August temperatures averaged nearly 30 degrees and on four separate days the thermometers hit 40 degrees (104 degrees F.). Quite simply, it was the hottest summer ever. The results of this heat-wave were low yields (about 35% down on average), record degrees of sugar content, dark colours and ripe tannins. The harvest began at Haut Brion (for the white grapes) on August 13th – the earliest since 1893 and for the Merlots at La Mission on August 19th – the earliest start to a vintage ever. Comparisons are being made with historic “hot” vintages such as 1947. Young vines suffered, as did those that were over-exposed to the sun, but many wines produced from old vines with deep roots (especially Cabernet Sauvignon) on great terroirs are quite outstanding.

In general, this is clearly a great Cabernet Sauvignon vintage and very much a left-bank vintage. Many Médoc Chateaux have produced the greatest young wines in a generation, surpassing the quality of even 2000, 1990, 1989 and 1982. That is not to say that there are no great Merlot or Cabernet Franc based wines on the Right Bank but these grape varieties did not cope nearly as well with the stress of the scorchingly hot summer and we found only a handful of truly top class wines in Saint Emilion and only one in Pomerol. Those who picked their Merlots early have done well but those who waited have over-ripe, ugly, unbalanced wines. On the contrary, Médoc producers who waited for full phenolic maturity of their thick-skinned Cabernet Sauvignons and picked late are the most successful. In the Graves quality is mixed but generally good, with several excellent wines. In the Southern Médoc and Margaux quality is good but more variable and it seemed to us that the further North we travelled the better the wines. Almost every single wine that we tasted in Saint Julien, Pauillac and Saint Estèphe was very good (even Chateaux that are normally mediocre), and the top Chateaux in these communes have produced some of the greatest wines that we have ever tasted en primeur.

2003 is not, overall, as consistently good a vintage as 2000 but we think that there may well be more individually great wines in 2003 than in 2000. Interestingly, James Suckling of The Wine Spectator magazine rates an unprecedented 23 wines in the top 95-100 points score range (more than in 2000).

Stylistically, this is a vintage of low acidity and many Right Bank wines show a lack of balance and structure. However, we were amazed that most of the top wines of the Médoc do show classic Bordeaux character. We were prepared for Australian-type richness but were pleased to discover that, despite the incredible ripeness of fruit, the wines are opulent but retain their unique Bordeaux balance and breeding, with classic structure and acidity. These wines may well be exuberant and powerful but they are still very much “claret” with great elegance and finesse.

This is a vintage that every Bordeaux lover will want to buy en primeur but it is important to select the right wines. There are some absolute classics from the top producers and there are also some remarkably good wines from cru bourgeois properties in the Médoc that we expect to be sold at very modest prices. For example, In 2003 there are humble Chateaux in Left Bank villages that have out-performed some of the most famous and expensive wines of Pomerol.

We expect huge demand this year for the top thirty or forty wines of the vintage. Thanks to our buying power and excellent relations with the leading “negociants” of Bordeaux, we are confident that we will be able to source good quantities of the best wines for our customers; but production is down and demand is up and so there will not be enough wine for everyone. It is essential, therefore, to register your interest with us now for the Chateaux that you are considering buying so that you will receive our opening offer on the day of release. Wines that are over-subscribed will be sold on an allocation basis to those customers who buy (as Farr Vintners does) “across the board”. As much as we would love to supply all requests for Lafite and Cos d'Estournel 2003, we already know that this will be quite impossible.

Why Buy En Primeur?
The main advantage of buying en primeur is to purchase a wine at the initial release price. Some wines are subsequently seldom available commercially and most, it is expected, will be more expensive if bought later on. Furthermore, en primeur purchasing gives buyers the assurance that they have owned a wine since before it was even bottled so that when they subsequently come to drink it they know exactly where the wine has been (and how it has been stored) all its life. Provenance is priceless. Also, buying en primeur allows the purchaser to choose the bottle size. For those who like, for example, their wine in half-bottles or double-magnums it is essential to buy now!

Buying En Primeur
These 2003 wines will be bottled towards the end of 2005 and will be released in the Spring of 2006. Our prices are in £ Sterling per case of one dozen bottles. The wines are sold lying in bond UK. Prices therefore include delivery from France, insurance and warehouse receiving charges, but they exclude duty and V.A.T. which will be payable only if wines are later cleared from bond. Customers who wish to buy for export, under bond transfer or under bond collection have nothing further to pay. No storage charges are payable until after physical availability in June 2006. Payment is due on receipt of invoice.

You may choose to have your 2003s bottled in halves, magnums, double magnums and impériales at a small extra cost. Please ask Elaine Coe for details. NB: All wines will, initially, be invoiced in cases of 12 x 75cl. Later this year, at the end of the en primeur campaign, orders for special sizes may be placed and will be passed on by us to our suppliers in Bordeaux and are subject to their acceptance.

Why Buy En Primeur from Farr Vintners?
You can buy en Primeur in complete confidence from Farr Vintners. We are Britain's biggest fine wine merchant and are the holders of numerous “Bordeaux Specialist Wine Merchant of the Year” and “Fine and Rare Wine Merchant of the Year” awards. No British wine company buys more classed growth Bordeaux than us and, consequently, we enjoy excellent relations with the leading Bordeaux proprietors and negociants. Farr Vintners has been trading successfully and reliably for over 25 years and is the leading British buyer of Bordeaux en Primeur. Furthermore, we pride ourselves on offering our customers seriously informed and honest advice on what to buy and, just as important, what not to buy. (Which of our competitors was it who claimed that 1997 Bordeaux was “worthy of investment” ?).

It is important to buy en primeur from a successful wine merchant with a good reputation and a track record of delivering the goods (and not just at the cheapest possible price). Please do let us know if one of our competitors is offering the same wine as us at a lower price but bear in mind that peace of mind and reliability of supply are worth far more than a slightly discounted price.

Notes on the En Primeur Report
All prices marked est are estimated by us as these Chateaux had not released their prices at the time of publication of this report. If you would like to be offered any of these wines on the day of release at a firm price then please get in touch with us (Cette adresse e-mail est protégée contre les robots spammeurs. Vous devez activer le JavaScript pour la visualiser.) with a list of which wines are of interest to you or click the relevant names on the web site. This en primeur report will be updated daily with latest news, reviews, scores and firm prices in the en primeur section of our web site www.farrvintners.com .

For information, we also include the current market price of all Chateaux in 2000 and an average price of mature vintages of similar quality to 2003. These are quoted as rough guidelines only. As a general rule, we would advise that 2003's should only be purchased if offered cheaper than the current price of the 2000 vintage and at no more than half the price of a mature vintage of the same wine.

Scores used to rate the wines in this report are from the following sources :

(FV) –The average score (out of 20) from the ten members of the Farr Vintners team, with several wines marked recommended or good value which offer particularly high quality and are expected to be sold at modest prices.

(JR) – Jancis Robinson's scores from the purple pages of her excellent web site www.jancisrobinson.com

(WS) – James Suckling (out of 100) from “Wine Spectator” magazine. Read his report on www.winespectator.com

(RP) – Robert Parker (out of 100) from “The Wine Advocate”

THE WINES OF THE VINTAGE

The Farr Vintners Wines of the Vintage
The 20 most outstanding wines of 2003 as chosen by the Farr Vintners team.
Lafite
Latour
Margaux
Montrose
Cos d'Estournel
Ausone
Haut Brion
Pichon Baron
Pichon Lalande
Mouton Rothschild
Gruaud Larose
Léoville Barton
Léoville Lascases
Lynch Bages
Eglise Clinet
Talbot
Grand Puy Lacoste
Léoville Poyferré
La Mission Haut Brion
Pape Clément

The Farr Vintners Great Value Wines of the Vintage
The 10 best classic wines at around or under £20 per bottle
De Fieuzal Rouge
Domaine de Chevalier Rouge
Prieuré Lichine
Lagrange
Langoa Barton
Armailhac
Batailley
Duhart Milon
Haut Batailley
Ormes de Pez

The Farr Vintners Bargains of the Vintage
10 great wines at around or under £10 per bottle
Villa Bel-Air
Aurilhac
La Bernadotte
Branas Grand Poujeaux
Charmail
La Tour Carnet
La Gurgue
Du Tertre
Haut Beycehevelle Gloria
Meyney

James Suckling's Wines of the Vintage
Wines rated 95-100 on www.winespectator.com
Angélus
Ausone
Cheval Blanc
Clerc Milon
Cos d'Estournel
Gruaud Larose
Haut Brion
Lafite
Lafleur
Latour
Léoville Barton

Léoville Lascases
Margaux
La Mission Haut Brion
La Mondotte
Montrose
Mouton Rothschild
Pavie
Pétrus
Pichon Baron
Pichon Lalande
Pontet Canet
Trotanoy

Best value wines rated by James Suckling
This is our selection of wines that we hope to offer at below £20 per bottle rated 92-100 by James Suckling
Clerc Milon
Aiguilhe
Armailhac
Clos du Marquis
Duhart Milon
Giscours

Kirwan
Lagrange
Langoa Barton
Malescot St Exupery
Smith Haut Lafitte
Talbot

Steven Spurrier's Top Ten Wines of the Vintage.
One of Britain's most respected wine tasters. His tasting notes can be found at www.decanter.com
Latour
Lafite
Margaux
Montrose
Haut Brion

Léoville Lascases
Cos d'Estournel
Mouton Rothschild
Léoville Barton
Pontet Canet

Barry Phillips' Wines of the Vintage
Barry ran the famous White Horse Inn at Chilgrove for 30 years and we reckon that he has tasted more fine wine than almost anyone else in the country.

Lafite
Latour
Cos d'Estournel
Montrose
Ausone

Pichon Lalande
Margaux
Léoville Lascases
Pichon Baron
Gruaud Larose

Barry Phillips' Wines Best Buys
Beychevelle
Branaire
Talbot
Duhart Milon
Haut Batailley

Les Ormes de Pez
Armailhac
De Fieuzal
Brane Cantenac
D'Issan

Coming soon :

Please see our website www.farrvintners.com for details as soon as they are published.

Jancis Robinson's Wines of the Vintage

Robert Parker's Wines of the Vintage

Clive Coates' Wines of the Vintage

PESSAC-LEOGNAN/GRAVES

Carmes Haut Brion (FV 15) (RP xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 330, mature = N/A) £180 – 250 est
This small, well situated property near Haut Brion will produce just 20,000 bottles in 2003 from an encepagement that reads more like that of a Saint Emilion - 50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc and only 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. The yield was 36 hl/ha. Dark colour, creamy with spice from the new oak. Dense black fruit. Fairly firm. Quite good.

Domaine de Chevalier (FV 16+)(RP xx)(JR xx)(WS xx-xx) (2000 = 260, mature = 460) £180 – 220 est
Olivier Bernard has engaged superstar winemaker Stéphane Derenoncourt (of La Mondotte, Canon la Gaffelière, Pavie Macquin fame) and the wine has benefited greatly from his input. Usually modestly priced, one hopes that the recent increase in quality here will not result in an increase in price and if that is the case, this will be a wine to buy. 7500 cases will be produced from only 40% of all the grapes harvested – 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc. A superb nose of wood-smoke and creamy coconut, lovely smooth and elegant. A fine Graves character and a fruit cocktail on the palate. This is quietly very, very classy with a superb polished character. Charming and beautifully made. This is a wine that those looking for gobs of extracted decadence will totally fail to understand. Really lovely. Recommended.

de Fieuzal (FV 16) (RP xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 200, mature = 350) £150 – 180 est
Now owned by Irish banker Lochlann Quinn. The winemaker is Jean-Luc Marchive – formerly of L'Evangile. Only 50% of the crop will be used for the Grand Vin this year – 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot with picking starting in early September and ending in early October. Monsieur Marchive describes the wine as “Elegant, volumineux, puissant.” The nose is fabulously exotic with great Graves complexity – smoky, earthy and tarry. The palate is complex with cigar-box, cedar and mineral character. Good class and breeding with a polished, silky texture. Not over-concentrated but a very fine example of what it is. Recommended.

Haut Bailly (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 265, mature = 350) £180 – 250 est
56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc. The grapes were picked over a 4 week period with the Cabernet Sauvignon left on the vines until the end of September. Veronique Sanders describes the wine as “un vin a la fois puissant et velouté”. Firm and quite tough but good fruit behind the tannins. Will need some time to come round but we always find Haut Bailly difficult to judge at this age.

Haut Bergey (FV 14) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 320, mature = n/a) £150 – 240 est
Under the same ownership as Clos l'Eglise in Pomerol and Barde Haut in Saint Emilion. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot always picked very ripe and much loved by Robert Parker. The 2003 is plush and modern on the nose with a nice polished texture. It seems a little lacking in structure and density and after the attractive new oak nose it tails off to a short finish.

Haut Brion (FV 18.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 2500, mature = 2500) £900 + est
58% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc. Less than 10,000 cases this year (the smallest vintage in years apart from 1991) with yields of 36 hl/ha. Inky opaque colour, open, exotic ripe blackcurrant on the nose with a sheen of classy new wood. Classic Graves allspice character. Sweeter and less evidently tannic than La Mission. Very elegant and refined. Great class. “Incredibly intense aromas of tobacco, chocolate, toasted oak and currants. Super-ripe and exotic. This reminds me of the 1989. Jean-Philippe Delmas says that it could be better than 2000. I certainly agree.” WS

Bahans Haut Brion (FV 15.5+)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS 89-91) (2000 = 265, mature = 500) £200 – 250 est
The second wine of Château Haut Brion, produced this year from 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc. Meaty and tarry on the nose this is classic Graves with some good sweetness. “Very pretty. Lovely fruit. Really good second wine from Haut Brion. Better than 2000?” WS

La Mission Haut Brion (FV 17+)(RPxx)(JR xx)(WS 95-100)(2000 = 2500, m= 2000) £600 – 1000 est
Frequently the equal of sister-Chateau Haut Brion, this is normally a good buy en primeur as it is released at a lower price but achieves First Growth prices when mature. Produced from 52% Merlot and 48% Cabernet Sauvignon. Less than 5000 cases produced this year. Chocolate truffles to start with but it becomes increasingly concentrated and dense with loads of structure. A big wine that we found hard to taste but it could well turn out to be a truly great La Mission. “Fantastic aromas of violets, berries and currants with hints of wood. Full-bodied, with super-refined tannins and a lovely silky finish. Very refined yet powerful and structured. It builds and builds.” WS

La Chapelle de la Mission (FV 14)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS xx-xx) (2000 = 225, m = n/a) 150- 180 est
The second wine of La Mission Haut Brion is where the Cabernet Franc has gone this year. The blend is 50% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. Pepper and spice, quite earthy. Forward style. Will provide attractive young drinking.
La Tour Haut Brion (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 350, mature = 400) £240 – 300 est
A separate 4 hectare vineyard adjoining (and made by) La Mission Haut Brion. 68% Merlot and 32% Cabernet Sauvignon. Exotic, spicy nose. Thick and tarry with great density. This is a very impressive, chunky wine.

Larrivet Haut Brion (FV 14) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 200, mature = 250) £150 – 180 est
Opulent wine is made here with the help of Michel Rolland from 55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon. Not the deepest of colours, this seems to be a wine that will evolve quickly and give early pleasure. Cream and silk but not much depth.

Malartic Lagravière (FV 14.5)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS xx-xx) (2000 = 210, mature = 200) £150 – 180 est
A much improved Chateau in recent years with nearly as much second wine being produced as Grand Vin (approx 60:40). The encepagement is 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. Medium weight with attractive red cherry fruit. Good balance, nicely done but not top class on today's showing. Good early drinker.

Pape Clément (FV 17+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 380, mature = 500) £350 – 420 est
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, produced from low yields. Owner Bernard Magrez has made serious investments here since the late 1990's and the 2001 was one of the top wines of the vintage. Extraordinary depth and opulence to this wine. Huge and decadent with super-ripe black cherry fruit. Great power and persistence. A beautiful cloak of velvet envelops the body and masks the tannins. Very impressive. “Very rich nose of chocolate, tobacco and bright berries. Full-bodied, soft and luscious with ripe tannins and a long, delicious finish. Fine wine.”WS

Poumey (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = n/a, mature = n/a) £100 – 150 est
Bernard Magrez, owner of Pape Clément, also owns this neighbouring property. Deep and chunky. There is also a modern special cuvee called La Serenité de Poumey which is huge with big black cherry fruit character. Rated 89-91 by Wine Spectator “Very nice indeed”.

Smith Haut Lafitte (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 300, mature = n/a) £220 – 280 est
Daniel and Florence Cathiard transformed this property in the early 1990s and have been making decadent, modern, sexy wines here since then which combine flavours of classic earthy Graves and silky, seductive new oak. 60% of the crop will go into the first wine with 7500 cases produced from 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc in 80% new oak. Yields were a mere 25hl/ha. Comparisons are made with the excellent 1996 vintage produced here and also with 1947. Lots of new wood and barrel char on the nose with thick, ripe cherry fruit behind. Sweet, good texture, some thick tannins and structure. Good length. A very attractive wine that marries spicy vanilla oak with ripe fruit. “Dark colour, intense aromas of black berries and licorice. Full-bodied with solid tannins and a long silky finish. Excellent depth here. Very well crafted. Smith Haut Lafitte continues to get better each year.” WS

Villa Bel-Air (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 90, mature = n/a) £60–80est
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. For the first time there is 20% new oak. The Cabernets were picked late – 23-27th September. This property is owned by Jean-Michel Cazes of Lynch Bages and it has produced a delicious wine that we are promised will be sold at a very modest price. Juicy, sweet, cherry and blackcurrant fruit, pure, ripe and nicely balanced with hints of vanilla pods and mint. Really attractive.This will drink well for 10 years from bottling. We loved this wine. Better than the 2000. A great bargain. Highly Recommended.

HAUT-MEDOC and MOULIS

d'Aurilhac (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = n/a, mature = n/a) £75 - 100 est
Situated in the very Northern-most part of the Médoc near Sociando Mallet – the most successful area this year. Wow! What an amazingly dark saturated colour. Intense black cherry nose. Rich, concentrated and sweet with lots of glycerol and rounded ripe tannins. All elements in balance and not over-extracted despite the great depth. Big, thick but soft. Very impressive performance from this little-known cru bourgeois property. Highly Recommended.

Belgrave (FV 14) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = n/a, mature = n/a) £100 - 140 est
This little-known Chateau is actually a classed growth and this year it caught our eye with an impressive black colour and and inky concentration of black fruits. Punchy and powerful if somewhat lacking in sophistication.

La Bernadotte (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 115, mature = n/a) £75 - 100 est
Owned by Pichon Lalande and the wine is made by the same talented winemaking team. This property has produced enjoyable, forward, attractive and modestly priced wines in recent years and we feel that this is the best vintage so far. A lovely nose of toasty vanilla and creamy fruit. Gorgeous cassis, mulberries and blueberries. A real summer pudding with dollops of cream. Ripe, modern, plush and sexy. This is flattering and juicy – very much an entry level version of Pichon Lalande. Will be a lovely early-maturer. Recommended.

Branas Grand Poujeaux (FV 15.5)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS xx-xx)(2000 = n/a, mature = n/a) £90 - 130 est
This 5.5 hectare property in Moulis has seen major investment and Michel Rolland now advises on wine-making. It is situated between Chasse Spleen and Poujeaux. 63% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5 % Petit Verdot with maturation in 100% new oak barrels. Modern wine-making techniques are used here such as micro-bullage, elevage sur lie and temperature control. Deep colour, sweet, modern and exotic on the nose with cherry and vanilla. Nicely balanced. Sweet, sexy fruit on the palate. Good depth. An impressive effort - should be Great Value.

Cambon La Pelouse (FV 14) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 90, mature = N/A) £80 - 100 est
This property is well situated at the edge of the Margaux appellation between Giscours and Cantemerle. Purchased by the Marie family in 1996, there has been serious investment here and yet prices have remained modest. This is a Merlot-style wine (60% of the final blend with 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Cabernet Franc). Plump, rich wine with nice ripeness. A plump, Merlot style. Well-rounded with good glycerol. Smooth with lots of fruit.

Cantemerle (FV 14.5+?) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 170, mature = 350) £110 – 140 est
A popular Classed Growth Château from the southern Médoc. Always provides reliable quality and value for money. 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 9% Petit Verdot (more than normal). Ripe tannins here make this an attractive easy-drinking wine. Forward, quite plump and charming.

Charmail (FV 15.5+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 180, mature = N/A) £90 - 125 est
This property in the far North of the Médoc made a fabulous 2000 (Parker rating 93) and is certainly one to look out for as quality is now regularly at classed growth levels but prices remain modest. 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc. Has been described as “the new Sociando Mallet”. Very Impressive depth here – really thick, rich, fleshy and sweet. Great concentration with layers of black cherry fruit. A little sweeter and more approachable than Sociando Mallet but shares the same powerful physique. Good wine! Recommended.

Chasse Spleen (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 180, mature = 320) £130
63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc.The leading Chateau of the Moulis appellation. Good, deep colour. Quite firm and structured. Chewy and tannic. Quite tough to taste now but should turn out well. One of the first properties to release and at £130, this seems modestly priced.

Goulée (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = N/A, mature = N/A) £140 – 200 est
Jean-Guillaume Prats of Cos d'Estournel has made this wine from an 8 hectare vineyard of old Cabernet vines in the northern part of the Médoc. 800 cases will be produced by very modern “new world” methods. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot. Incredibly dark black extracted colour. Initially tight and closed but there is great opulence here. Lots of glycerol on the palate with sweet, spicy new world fruit but good structure too. Exciting new wine.

Les Grandes Chênes (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = n/a, mature = n/a) £75 - 100 est
This property is also situated in the North of the Médoc and is owned by Bernard Magrez of Pape Clément who has spared no expense to make top class wines at all his properties. Monsieur Magrez has a great passion for producing the best wines possible at each of his Chateaux and the great improvements that we have already witnessed at La Tour Carnet and Fombrauge are being mirrored here. Intense blackcurrant/cassis and lots of creamy new oak. Lovely creamy nose, very plump and sweet. Impressive, flattering and sexy style. “Silky and rich with blackberry and licorice character. Medium to full-bodied, well integrated tannins and a medium finish”. WS

La Lagune (FV 14.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 200, mature = 400) £150 – 180 est
A popular classed growth situated south of Margaux near Cantemerle. Cabernet Sauvignon 55%, Merlot 30%, Petit Verdot 10%, Cabernet Franc 5%. Maturation in 60% new oak. Winemaker Patrick Moulin compares 2003 with 1982, 1983 and 1995. Impressive depth, this is robust and chunky. We found it difficult to taste today but there is plenty to it and maybe it will deserve a higher score as it softens.

Potensac (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 130, mature = 240) £90 – 120 est This Northern Médoc property is owned by the producers of Léoville Lascases and it is consistently one of the best Cru Bourgeois thanks to their unstinting pursuit of quality. The addition of newly purchased vines means that there is more Merlot in the blend than before. 33% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Cabernet Franc.30% new oak. “ A wonderful abundance of crushed fruits on the nose. Full-bodied, with loads of ripe berry fruit and super-silky tannins. Then long. This might be the best Potensac I have ever had – almost 92-94.” WS
Poujeaux (FV 14.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 150, mature = 250) £120 – 150 est
Consistently attractive and popular Cru Bourgeois, made with 40% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. Invariably of classed growth quality and always forward and exotic with a toasty oak character. This year it has the usual characteristics and is relatively soft so should be an attractive early drinker.

Sociando Mallet (FV 16+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 260, mature = 420) £160 – 220 est
This is a serious and consistent Northern Médoc property whose wines have been of top Classed Growth quality for many years. Made from 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, aged in all-new oak, the wines here are always dense and impressive. Black and inky. A monster wine and perhaps the best Sociando Mallet ever. This wine is sometimes too tough for its own good but in 2003 (like in 1996 and 1990) the Cabernet has reached optimum ripeness and there is an extra dimension of richness as well as power and density. Big stuff. “Beautiful aromas of raspberries, licorice and currants follow through to a full-bodied palate with silky tannins and a long finish. Another 1990 in the making?” WS Recommended.

La Tour Carnet (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 150, mature = n/a) £115 – 140 est
This 4th growth Cru Classé has recently benefited from substantial investment from new owner Bernard Magrez of Château Pape Clément. He has produced very impressive, concentrated wines since 2000 that bear no relation to the mediocre La Tour Carnets of old. Burnt and roasted new oak on the nose. Fleshy and ripe on the palate with good structure and balance. Wonderful opulent black fruit here. Plump and sexy. Recommended.

MARGAUX

Brane Cantenac (FV 16.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 275, mature = 350) £175 – 240 est
A 2nd growth property whose wines have improved in quality considerably in recent vintages yet remain typically Margaux in character. This is a beautiful wine which is wonderfully creamy and supple. Realatively light but well balanced and rounded. Tannins are soft and not astringent. Elegant and mineral and it tastes like real Margaux!
Complexity not jam.

Cantenac Brown (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 220, mature = 300) £140 – 180 est
Owned by the AXA insurance group and managed by Englishman Christian Seely who also runs Pichon Baron and Suduiraut. This is the best Cantenac Brown that we have tasted en primeur. Good density and deep chewy fruit. “Very good indeed” WS

Durfort Vivens (FV 14.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 180, mature = 240) £140 – 180 est
This is another 2nd growth property owned by the Lurton family of Brane Cantenac. The 30 hecatres of vines are planted 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc. Gonzagues Lurton is a man on a mission and this is definitely a property on the up. This is a quietly classy wine that is not at all showy but delivers fine Cabernet character and the purity of the appellation. “Tarry and fruity with a hint of cigar tobacco. Full-bodied, chewy and rich. Long finish. Shows potential.”

Ferrière (FV 15.5+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 200, mature = N/A) £140 – 180 est
This small Chateau (a third growth in the 1855 clasification) has been run by Claire Villars for a few years now and recent vintages have been very impressive. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. Good substance here and quite a bit of structure. Good grip for the vintage. There is real depth of Cabernet fruit and a long finish. Fine and pure. “Well integrated tannins. Very fine and elegant for the vintage.” WS

Giscours (FV 16.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 240, mature = 380) £165 – 220 est
Serious improvements are taking place here with a new Technical Director brought in from Cos d'Estournel. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot with none of the Cabernet Franc used. Elevage in 50% new oak and 50% 1 year old oak. Those who remember the 1970 Giscours will know that this Chateau can make great wine when they put their minds to it. Very impressive – is this the best Giscours since then? Excellent depth, fleshy and sweet with ripe tannins. Great Margaux purity. “Intense aromas of cooked fruit and prunes. Full-bodied with rich and ripe fruit character. Soft, round tannins and a long finish. Heady and rich. Port-like. Could be the legendary 1970 in the re-make.” WS. Recommended

La Gurgue (FV 15) (FV xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 110, mature = n/a) £90 – 120 est
This low profile Cru Bourgeois (they don't send samples to Mr Parker!) is produced by the same team as Ferrière and Haut Bages Liberal and has been making very good wines at modest prices for the last few vintages. Lovely spicy nose, soft fruit – this is a beautifully crafted wine of good purity, class and breeding. “Rich and round, with lovely wild fruit character. Velvety tannins and a long, long finish. Big juicy wine. Well done.” WS. Good value.

Issan (FV 15.5) (FV xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 250, mature = 300) £155 – 200 est
Emmanuel Cruse has seriously increased the quality here in recent years without pushing up the price. Production is 30% down to 7500 cases, 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot with 50% new wood. Yields down to 36 hl/ha. The aim here is to go for balance not over-extraction. Emmanuel believes it to be one of the best wines that he has ever made – similar to the 2000 but with more elegance. A Margaux that tastes like Margaux – sweet blackcurrant, not forced, smoky mineral character. Not a heavyweight but elegant and supple.

Kirwan (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 285, mature = 275) £140 – 180 est
Made under the guidance of Michel Rolland. Always one of the most opulent wines of the appellation. Very deep colour, with extracted, plump fruit. Quite decadent in style. 7,000 cases produced (instead of the normal 10,000) with 60% of the crop making it into the Grand Vin. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot. Yield 32 hl/ha. A sexy wine with a milk chocolate palate. Concentrated, warm and modern – reminiscent of licorice sherbert dip. Well made if not classic. We could confidently mistake this as right-bank in a blind tasting. “Beautiful, bold and polished with blackberry and cedar aromas and flavours. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a long, long finish. New world style. Delicious yet structured.” WS

Lascombes (FV 14) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 215, mature = 275) £200 – 300 est
Now advised by Alain Reynaud of La Fleur de Gay and Quinault L'Enclos with a total transformation in quality similar to that which has taken place at Pavie. Thick, impressive wines are now being made here, with elevage sur lie in 90% new oak but there has been some criticism that they are no longer typical of the appellation. This is partly because the vineyard contains more Merlot than is usual in Margaux – 50%, with 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot. “Intense aromas of black licorice and minerals. Full bodied with lots of fruit and velvety tannins. Very long. Yummy already. Well done.” WS

Malescot St Exupery (FV 15)(RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94)(2000 = 270, mature = 300) £165 – 210 est
A much-improved Chateau whose wines have impressed us over the last few years. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. Concentrated on the palate with deliciously sweet red berry fruits. Ripe and round but firm structured. “Wonderful aromas of blackberries, dark chocolate, meat and other yummy decadent things, changing to dry flowers. Full bodied, with super well integrated tannins and a long, fresh finish. Silky backbone of tannins. Serious wine.” WS

Margaux (FV 19) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 3000, mature = 2400) £900 + est
Paul Pontallier reports a very low yield of 30 hl/ha. The success of all grape varieties has resulted in a slightly higher percentage of the much reduced total crop (45%) going into the Grand Vin this year. It is 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12 % Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. Monsieur Pontallier compares it to 1982, 1989 and 1990 and says that it has the richness of 1989 with the concentration and structure of 1986. Unctuous cassis and vanilla. Wonderfully intense sweet black fruit. Plenty of structure and tannin but balanced by the sweet ripe fruit. A big and great Margaux. “Very rich and decadent for Margaux. Full-bodied, with a solid core of sweet and silky tannins and a long, long finish. This is very racy and rich, with a fabulous velvety texture. Goes on and on. The most concentrated Margaux ever.” WS

Pavillon Rouge (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 330, mature = 420) £200 – 250 est
45% of Margaux's crop went into the Grand Vin, 50% into this, the second wine, with 5% being sold off in bulk. Pavillon is made from 57% Cabernet Sauvignon this year with 38% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc. Great concentration but this is so opulent and open-hearted that it will be hard to resist at an early age. A lovely, classy wine.

Marojallia (FV ?) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 850, mature = n/a) £500 + est
Controversial Garage Wine made by Murielle Andraud (wife of Jean-Luc Thunevin). It has been produced from 2 hectares of vines (30% Merlot, 60% Cabernets) from yields of 20 hectos/hectare (unheard of in the Médoc). Extremely dense, powerful, inky and hard. This would be unrecognisable as a Margaux in a blind tasting. We don't really know what to write here as we found it to be tough, sweet and jammy whilst James Suckling of the Wine Spectator describes it as having “Very fine tannins and a fresh finish. Pretty wine”

Palmer (FV 17) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 900, mature = 800) £500 – 750 est
Traditionally the finest wine of the Médoc after the 1st growths, Palmer slipped a bit in the 1980's but has returned to top form recently. This was the hottest vintage in the last 50 years at Palmer and the second earliest harvest ever with yields of only 25 hl/ha. This year it is 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 12% Petit Verdot, although the vineyard is planted with equal quantities of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Delicate perfume of cherry and roses. Beautiful rather than powerful with a lovely silky, elegant structure. Not too heavy, this is classic, pretty, complex and delightful. Great purity. Very Fine.

Alter Ego de Palmer (FV 14.5)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 240, mature = n/a) £180 – 240 est
The 2nd wine of Palmer, made from a high proportion of Merlot (47%) and matured in 25% new oak barrels. 35% of the vineyard's production. Atractive and easy-going with strawberry fruit. Forward, soft and supple.

Prieuré Lichine (FV 16.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 200, mature = 300) £165 – 200 est
New owners and a new wine-maker, Stéphane Derenoncourt (of La Mondotte fame) since 1999. This is a property where the quality (but not the price) has increased significantly recently. 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, with 60% new oak used. They describe their wine as being “tres aromatique avec beaucoup de rondeur et de soyeux”. We were very impressed with this wine which is the best Prieuré that we have ever tasted. There is a lovely, fragrant vanilla nose. On the palate it is beautifully smooth, supple and silky with good depth and intensity of cherry and blackcurrants. Good Margaux typicity. This is a great example of modern winemaking that also shows a deep respect for the terroir. “Nice wine.” WS. Recommended

Rauzan Ségla (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx)(JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 420, mature = 500) £250 – 320 est
Now comfortably established in the super-second league. Huge efforts are being made by owners Chanel to make great wine, with production of the first wine only 47% of the total harvest. John Kolasa, formerly of Château Latour is in charge here. There are under 7000 cases this year made from 53.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 1.5% Cabernet Franc – yield 30 hl/ha. “A big and bold wine with loads of blackberry, tobacco and toasted oak character. Full bodied and rich with a decadent berry aftertaste. Long finish. Wild retro red.” WS

Du Tertre (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 175, mature = 240) £120 – 180 est
This property is now producing very good wines again with the same winemaking team as Giscours. One third each Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with a little Malbec. The Chateau believe that the quality in 2003 is similar to that of 2000. Lovely plump fruit here. Plush and juicy, round and smooth. Lots of depth to it but it still retains the charm of Margaux. Very good and could be very good value. “Loads of cooked fruit with jammy, blackberry character. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a long finish. Nicely done.” WS. Recommended.

SAINT JULIEN

Beychevelle (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 250, mature = 500) £160 – 200 est
49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot. Sweet, with lots of ripe cherries. Very forward and attractive. Not the depth or complexity of the top Chateaux but there is no denying that it will be easy to appreciate and much enjoyed in its youth. The best Beychevelle in years. “Lovely silky wine with currant, mineral and berry character. Delicious already.” WS

Branaire (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 260, mature = 350) £150 – 200 est
72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 4.5% Petit Verdot, 3.5% Cabernet Franc. More Cabernet and less Merlot than normal. Good plump fruit like Beychevelle with an attractive nose of ripe fruit and creamy vanilla and a hint of cedar. All the elements in balance on the palate. “Blackberry and currant aromas and flavours, medium bodied with good tannins. Harmonious.” WS

Ducru Beaucaillou (FV 16.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 650, mature = 600) £280 – 450 est
82% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Merlot. 34 hl/ha. Good grip and structure but did not shine in our tasting as much as the other “super-seconds”. “Gorgeous blackberry, licorice and raspberry with hints of minerals. Full bodied and super-long. Silky and beautiful. Really long and fine. You have to like this. Seductive and harmonious red that grows on you. It's very rich in tannins but then shows lovely elegance. Almost 95-100.” WS

Gloria (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 180, mature = 300) £125 – 165 est
Neither cru classé nor cru bourgeois, this popular Chateau was created after the second world war from land purchased from adjoining classed growths. The 44 hectares are planted with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot with an average age of 45 years. Spicy, forward and generous. “Incredible aromas of black licorice and ripe currant character. Full-bodied, with soft and round tannins and a long finish. Blowsy. Lovely wine.”

Gruaud Larose (FV 17.5+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 500, mature = 600) £240 – 320 est
66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot, 1% Malbec. 10% more Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% less Merlot than the normal blend. Sensational Gruaud. Unctuous sweet nose with smoke, cherry, blackcurrant and vanilla. On the palate there is fabulous complexity and power with hints of soy sauce and exotic spices. Layered and rich but balanced. Wonderful. “Pure cassis and raspberry sauce with vanilla. Full bodied, with big, velvety tannins and a finish that lasts a very long time. Awesome wine. This is very close in quality to the 2000.” WS
Haut Beychevelle Gloria (FV 15)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS xx-xx) (2000 = N/A, m = 180)£100 – 150 est
A well-situated property near Beychevelle that produces attractive but classic Saint Julien at modest prices. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc. Lovely nose of pepper and rosemary. Lovely spice on the palate with soft, creamy rounded fruit. Good value from Saint Julien.

Lagrange (FV 16.5+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 260, mature = 400) £160 – 220 est
An excellent Chateau that has quietly been producing top quality Saint Julien since the late 1980's. This quality level is partly achieved by the production of a very good second wine – Les Fiefs de Lagrange where (even in 2003) 47% of the vineyard's fruit is used. With 5% sold off that leaves less than half for the Grand Vin. This year it is 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. Winemaker Marcel Ducasse says that it is like a super-1989 but more classic and structured. Great depth. Real power and concentration. Rich and roasted and packed with classic cassis fruit and a bite of pepper from the Petit Verdot. Impressive stuff from a Chateau that is out-performing its price level. “Beautiful aromas of plums, violets, berries and licorice. Full-bodied, with super well-integrated tannins and a long finish. Very pretty indeed. Well-crafted, showing lots of character.” WS. Recommended

Langoa Barton (FV 16.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 250, mature = 360) £180 – 240 est
Léoville Barton's 15 hectare sister Chateau remains very fairly priced for the consistent quality. Grapes varieties, viticulture and vinification are similar to those of Léoville. The essence of ripe Cabernet Sauvignon. Opaque, sweet intense black cherry nose. Huge richness with black chocolate. Powerful and really impressive. Without doubt the best Langoa that we have ever tasted and really close in quality to the Léoville this year. “This is 2000 all over again but riper. Langoa is always good value.” WS. Recommended.

Léoville Barton (FV17.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 780, mature = 600) £300 + ? est
Consistently brilliant quality in recent years and a reasonable pricing policy makes this one of our best selling wines. If there is any one Bordeaux wine to buy en primeur every year, then this is it. Unfortunately there is 30% less wine this year. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. 70% new oak. Winemaker Michel Raoult describes the wine as being “chennu, gras, equilibre et tres fruité”. An extremely black, dense viscous wine. Initially closed but clearly a big, concentrated, dense monster. Fabulous depth, strong and sophisticated with a wonderful mix of density and complexity. A very fine wine. “Very impressive licorice, blackberry and mint. Some pencil. Full-bodied with silky tannins. Super-long. Wonderful. Is it as good as 2000? Maybe.” WS

Léoville Lascases (FV 17.5)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS 95-100) (2000 = 1500, mature = 1000) £500 – 750 est
In the last 20 years this has been the top-performing non-1st Growth in the Médoc. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc. 60% new oak. This year it represents 54% of the total production. Extremely dense dark colour. A great expression of ripe Cabernet Sauvignon – initially closed, licorice, tar, plenty of concentration. Crushed cherries, cassis and oak. Huge, muscular but great sweetness too. “Very complex. Layers of cashmere-like tannins turning to leather. Warm and inviting yet rich and powerful; fantastic purity yet voluptuous. This is what exciting wine is about.” WS

Clos du Marquis (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 240, mature = 360) £150 – 220 est
Like its next-door neighbour Latour, Léoville Lascases produces a second wine that is not really a second wine but is a vineyard of Classed Growth quality in its own right. Indeed, It has more concentration than many Classed Growths. This has been an outstanding performer for many years. 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot – 46% of the production of Lascases. A forward version of the Grand Vin. Spicy, complex and intense. Glycerol and warmth with the lift of sweet ripe fruit. “Delicious, super-fruity finish. Very long indeed. Cool and racy. Very fine.” WS

Léoville Poyferré (FV 17+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 480, mature = 550) £200 – 300 est
A big jump in quality here recently and like its neighbour Léoville Barton, Poyferré is always very good value for money. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. Very concentrated classic Cabernet nose. Ripe fruits on the palate. Creamy and fleshy. Sweet and juicy with layered tannins and structure. The most approachable and seductive of the 3 Léovilles. This is a beautiful, ripe wine that will be a joy to drink.

Talbot (FV 17+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 330, mature = 500) £170 – 250 est
A popular Chateau that always delivers good quality at reasonable prices. This is perhaps the best young Talbot that we have ever tasted. Deep colour with prune-like concentration. Very flattering, forward and appealing. Generous and long. “Big, silky tannins and a long, long finish. Super. Could be classic in quality. Could be better than 2000.” WS

PAUILLAC

Armailhac (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 210, mature = 360) £140 – 190 est
Always good value, this property was formerly known as Mouton Baronne Philippe. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot. Yield was a low 35 hl/ha with 25% of new oak elevage. The winemaking team compare it to the 1989. Smoky nose. Ripe Cabernet with an exotic toasty oak character. Lovely roasted, ripeness with black olives and tobacco. Rich and powerful. Serious yet very approachable. “Loads of blackberries, spices and minerals on the nose. Very rich and thick; this should be excellent.” WS. Recommended.

Batailley (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 160, mature = 300) £125 – 160 est
Very impressive Batailley – the best that we have ever tasted. Deep black colour. A nice surprise. Rich, ripe Cabernet nose. Concentrated and very well structured with dense black cherry fruit and excellent ripeness. A big, classic wine with lots of structure. Serious Pauillac. “Long on the palate. Rich. Serious effort here.” WS. Recommended.

Clerc Milon (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 240, mature = 380) £180 – 240 est
Like Armailhac, made by the Mouton Rothschild team. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Carminere. Yields were a mere 28 hl/ha and they believe that it is similar to the 1990. James Suckling of The Wine Spectator adored this “Full-bodied, super-tight and rich with velvety tannins and a long, long finish. A real beauty. This is a thick and powerful blockbuster – one of my old favourites. 6500 cases made.” WS

Duhart Milon (FV 16.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 200, mature = 350) £145 – 185 est
Produced by the team who make Lafite, and they have been on fire in recent vintages under Charles Chevalier. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc. A classic Pauillac with great black Cabernet Sauvignon fruit. Big structure but loads of ripe fruit. The best Duhart that we have ever tasted. “Lots of blackberry, mineral and cedar aromas follow through to a full-bodied palate, with firm tannins and a licorice, berry and light spice finish. Very tight, yet round. One of the best I have tasted from this estate.” WS. Recommended.

Grand Puy Ducasse (FV 15.5)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS 89-91) (2000 = 150, mature = 250) £135
Always moderately priced, but well-made Pauillac. A serious effort in the selection process has resulted in only 6500 cases produced this year with 10000 cases of second wine. We think that this is the best GPDs that we've ever tasted. 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot aged in 50% new oak. The 2003 vintage is compared here to 1947. Deep concentrated colour, gamey on the nose. Big, prune and black cherry fruit with good balance.“Tar, cedar and jam character. Long finish. Impressive…best wine in ages from here.” WS. 2003's first classed growth release.

Grand Puy Lacoste (FV 17+)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx-xx)(WS 89-91)(2000 = 400, mature = 500)£180 – 260 est
Xavier Borie consistently makes one of the finest Pauillacs and this is his first vintage in complete charge following his hand-over of Ducru to brother Bruno. 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Always a classic, minty, Cabernet-Sauvignon dominated Pauillac with blackcurrant character. The 2003 has real cassis Cabernet and Pauillac purity. Very classic and seamless. Great complexity, length and finish. A wonderful Grand Puy Lacoste. “Full and rich with loads of blackberry and cherry character. Ripe tannins. Long finish. Pretty red. Almost 92-94. Very good indeed.” WS. One of the wines of the vintage.

Haut Bages Libéral (FV 16) (RP xx-xx)(JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 160, mature = £240) £130 – 160 est
Some very fine vintages have quietly been produced here in recent years by the charming Claire Villars-Lurton in the classic style. She comes from a family steeped in Bordeaux tradition – she used to make Chasse Spleen (now run by her sister) her uncle owns Gruaud Larose; other relatives own many further Chateaux and her husband's family owns Durfort Vivens, Brane Cantenac, Climens etc. This is one of the fastest improving wines in Bordeaux right now. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot. Perfumed, elegant nose. Soft and sweet but with dark chocolate and cassis fruit. Polished and beautifully made. Great Pauillac that may provide fairly early drinking. “Intense aromas of jam, spice and blackberry. Soft finish. Nicely done.” WS

Haut Batailley (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 200, mature = 350) £130 – 175 est
Somewhat over-shadowed by the same owner's Grand Puy Lacoste, this property always produces classic Pauillac at a reasonable price. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Pure, defined Cabernet and minty nose, Great ripeness, not heavy but has prunes and a supple richness on the palate. Gorgeous and ripe. Recommended.

Lafite (FV 19.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 2750, mature = 2000) £900+ est
For many years now Lafite has been at the top of its game, always making one of the best wines of the vintage without fail. This year the blend is stacked with Cabernet Sauvignon – 86% with only 9% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Deep colour, fantastic opulent nose. Sweet, very ripe fruit, roasted coffee, pain grille, allspice. You can smell the heat of the vintage here. This is a brilliant Cabernet Sauvignon wine with blackcurrant fruit providing great power but all wrapped up in a robe of silk. Power and elegance in perfect harmony. Magnificent. Lasts for ages. Wine of the vintage? “Exciting, yet polished and refined. This is a rich and structured Lafite. Very classic style.” WS

Carruades de Lafite (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 285, mature = 360) £180 – 250 est
Lafite's second wine has improved in quality enormously in recent years thanks to ruthless selection processes in the production of the Grand Vin. Many vines that could easily produce fruit for Lafite are now allocated to the Carruades. Consequently, this year it contains nearly all of Lafite's Merlot – 50% of the blend here with 48% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. Big, juicy and generous on the palate, lots of cherry fruit. “Sweet plum and silky tannins. Long and pretty. Almost 92-94 points.” WS

Latour (FV 19) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 3000, mature = 2000) £900 + est
The dynamic Director of the Château, Frédéric Engerer, is determined to make the greatest wine possible at Latour and has the confidence of owner, François Pinault, to do all that it takes to achieve this aim. Production levels have been slashed in recent vintages with only the best parcels of vines now producing grapes for the Grand Vin. Consequently, there will only be 10,000 cases of Latour 2003 (53% of the total harvest). It is a classic Latour made from 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot with a dash of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Black, viscous, opaque. Very concentrated inky, masculine nose. On the palate there is tar, spice and a prune-like concentration with gobs of juicy rich fruit. Layers of ripe tannins, huge intense and structured with real complexity. Lovely length and finish. Huge, dense and classic. Truly great. “Thick yet elegant, with fantastic ripe tannins and exciting juicy fruit on the finish. This could be 1982 in the re-make but cleaner and classier.” WS

Les Forts de Latour (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 400, mature = 480) £240 – 300 est
Not really a second wine as this is made from a separate part of the vineyard which contains many old vines as well as from some vats that are not quite up to the standards of the Grand Vin de Château Latour. This year it represents 36% of the total production of Château Latour. However, grapes from the young vines of the estate (11% of total production) are used for the production of a third label “Pauillac de Ch Latour” which is not sold en primeur. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot. Intense cherry and cassis, not over-extracted there is lovely ripe Cabernet fruit here with a smooth texture. “Lovely wine. This wine is always more open and delicious in a young top vintage than Latour but there is good structure too.” WS

Lynch Bages (FV 17.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 650, mature = 850) £250 – 350 est
75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot aged in 70% new oak. Unfortunately there is 25% less wine this year. One of the most popular Châteaux of Bordeaux, especially in the UK. Release prices are modest compared to the prices that consumers are happy to pay for mature vintages. This is consistently one of our biggest selling wines and once again Lynch Bages delivers the goods. The Cabernet here was not picked until the very end of September and it is deep, powerful and ripe. A great, complex, mint, tar and cigar-box nose. Intense Cabernet character. Rounded and supple on the palate with a kick of tannin on the finish. Classic and delicious. “Very rich and decadent style to this. Full-bodied, velvety tannins and a delicious finish. Flashy wine. Long and seductive. Maybe even better in bottle.” WS

Lynch Moussas (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91)(2000 = 150, mature = 200) £100 – 150 est
This property has been making improvements in recent vintages and the 2000 was the best that we had ever tasted (and the first vintage that we ever sold). Spicy nose. Good Pauillac but yet quite supple and friendly. This will deliver attractive early drinking with the richness of the vintage and some smooth tannins. “Full bodied palate, with silky tannins and a pleasing finish. This place is getting it right this year.” WS

Mouton Rothschild (FV 18) (RP xx-xx)(JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 2500, mature = 1800) £900+ est
Production is down 20% on last year with a yield of only 32hl/ha. 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. Aged in 94% new oak. Hervé Berland feels that it is a really exceptional Mouton, comparable to the 1982. Classically Cabernet Sauvignon Mouton with prune-like richness and concentration married with an exotic spiciness. Brooding and powerful, building to a long finish. “Full-bodied with a big core of ripe fruit and super-ripe tannins. Thick and powerful. Chewy. Tannins come out of hiding and lash out on the finish.” WS

Pichon Baron (FV 18+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 600, mature = 850) £300 – 400 est
This great vineyard has been producing classic Pauillac since the late 1980's when Jean-Michel Cazes of Lynch Bages took control. For the last few years Englishman Christian Seely has been in charge and quality continues to rise. This wine was magnificent in 1990 when it rivalled the First Growths and this is a repeat performance. Absolutely awesome! Great, intense Cabernet character this has huge power and concentration but is also so polished and beautifully crafted with a sumptuous but massive mouth-feel. “Flamboyant. Full-bodied, with big velvety and wild fruit. Outrageous. This is one of the greatest bottles I have ever tasted from here. Like the 1989 or 1990. I can't get over it. It's really exciting.” WS

Tourelles de Longueville (FV 15+)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS 95-100)(2000 = 160, m = 300)£130–165 est
Those who have tasted the 1990 and 2000 know how fabulous this (the second wine of Pichon Baron) can be. Along with Les Forts de Latour, Clos du Marquis and Reserve de la Comtesse this is a wine that is regularly of true classed growth quality.

Pichon Lalande (FV 18) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 900, mature = 800) £380 - 480 est
One of THE great names of Bordeaux and a true much-loved “super-second”. This year the blend is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot. The yield was down to 39 hl/ha and only 45% of the crop has been selected for the Grand Vin. Elevage in 50% new oak. For us this seems to be a return to the style of the great Pichon Lalandes with fabulous richness and opulence. The slight harshness that the Petit Verdot has given in the last few vintages has been toned down. Black cherries and violets on the nose, this is sexy, smooth, slick-textured and warm with fleshy tannins. Sumptuous, long and creamy. Absolutely drop-dead gorgeous. “This tastes like crushed grapes and red fruits. It's big and rich. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, long finish. Juicy wine. A cross between the 1995 and 1996. In fact, it could be better than 2000. Wonderful” WS

Pontet Canet (FV 17) (RP xx-xx (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 330, mature = 380) £180 – 250 est
Alfred Tesseron has been making classic Pauillac here every year since the excellent 1994. He tells us that after 25 years of making Pontet Canet this wine is of the highest quality he has ever seen. The final assemblage is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Black impenetrable colour. Huge, thick nose. Incredibly dense wine. This is a real powerhouse infused with roasted black fruits and tannin. It has the density of the super-seconds without the polish. Hugely impressive but will require patience. “Full-bodied, very rich and powerful with massive tannins but it finishes sweet and ripe. This is muscular, but then it turns to crushed fruit. Super-seductive. The best Pontet I have ever tasted.” WS

suite-suite-suite...tout de suite

c'est le résumé de la situation vue par le marchand de bordeaux le plus important de Londres (ou même de la planète?)...

à  prendre donc avec le recul nécessaire

"à  prendre donc avec le recul nécessaire"

Cela va être dur pour certains...(bbb)

Luc

Luc, j'attendais de toi que tu dises au moins que ceci n'etait pas un resume .... (bbb)

SAINT ESTEPHE

Calon Ségur (FV 17) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 450, mature = 500) £200 – 300 est
Since the release of the outstanding 1995, this great property has returned to its former glory yet opening prices have remained reasonable. Between 45 and 55% of the total crop will be used for the Grand Vin which is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. A big, rich and thick Calon. You can taste the heat of the vintage here. Layered fruit and ripe tannins this is a big, masculine wine that is structured but smooth textured and is built for the long run. Potentially great. “Loads of black berry and spice character with hints of cedar. Full-bodied with lots of smoky character and loads of meat, chocolate and fruit. A gorgeous Calon. Could be higher than this range in bottle.” WS

Cos d'Estournel (FV 18.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 580, mature = 750) £400 – 550 est
Jean-Guillaume Prats has been given total control by the new owner of Cos to produce the best wine possible. Quality here is on the up and Cos is now one of the very top super-seconds. The 2001 was better than the 2000 and the 2002 vintage equalled the quality of the First Growths. Cos is on top form. 2003 was a vintage, Jean-Guillaume points out, that was exceptionally hot but his old vines did not suffer from drought thanks to their deep roots. The result is a wine that is well-structured, but very classic. The percentages in the blend are 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc. A very black colour and viscous texture. Massive, unctuous and perfumed nose. Spices, cedar, sweet vanilla, chocolate and caramel. Huge in the mouth with layers of juicy, ripe black cherry fruit but classically structured. Lovely long sweet finish. A great Cos! “The estate says that it is the best wine they have ever made – and I think they could be right.” WS

Pagodes de Cos (FV 15.5+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 165, mature = 165) £130 – 180 est
The second wine of Cos. 20% new oak is used on this 50:50 Cabernet and Merlot blend. Very big for a second wine with excellent depth but should drink well after a few years in bottle.

Cos Labory (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = n/a, mature = n/a) £100 – 150 est
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot. Well, who would have thought it? Farr Vintners lists Cos Labory. This excellently situauted property (it is right next-door to Cos d'Estournel) has been one of Bordeaux's perennial under-achievers but this year we couldn't believe how good it was. Lots of substance to it. An impressive nose of ripe black fruits. Big, hot, juicy, layered. Lovely ripeness of fruit. Plenty of tannin too but these are smooth and ripe. Testimony to the outstanding success of this vintage in the vineyards of the Northern Médoc. “Wonderful Cabernet. Full-bodied with super-silky tannins and a long finish. Could turn out to be very special for this estate.”

Haut Marbuzet (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 215, mature = 350) £150 – 180 est
Henri Duboscq's wine in 2003 is 50% Merlot and is being aged entirely in new oak. As usual, it is far more opulent than would be expected from a St Estephe. He compares this vintage with his 1961 and is delighted with complete maturity of the tannins and the fruit. Very oaky on the nose and lots of vanilla, cream character on the palate. This tastes like Napa Valley Cabernet. Good depth of juicy fruit but the over-riding taste is one of creamy, sexy new oak. “Full bodied and very jammy. I like it.” WS

Lafon Rochet (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 180, mature = 280) £130 – 180 est
This property is under the same ownership as Pontet Canet. Solid, chunky, serious wines have been produced here in recent vintages. Maybe the best Lafon Rochet we have tasted. Black colour. A modern, slick nose of plush new wood and ripe black cherry fruit. Impressive inky depth. Solid yet quite polished. Dense and serious, maybe slightly lacks a touch of charm. “Wild and exotic wine. Blackberry and light jam character. Big and juicy. Full-bodied and long. Velvety.” WS

Marbuzet (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 150, mature = n/a) £120 – 150 est
This 11 hectare Cru Bourgeois is owned by Cos d'Estournel. Until the mid eighties it was used as a second label for Cos but is now run as an independent Chateau. This is the best vintage of Marbuzet that we have ever tasted. Thick, fat and juicy. Concentrated but easy going. Real St Estephe character but it is easy-going and should provide great drinking in 5 years. Another amazing example of the quality of 2003 Saint Estephes. Great value.

Meyney (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 135, mature = 300) £100 – 150 est
This popular Cru Bourgeois Chateau has made its best vintage in years here (better than 2000) thanks to the construction of a new chai and a severe selection process, with only half the grapes picked going into the first wine. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and a big slug – 12% - of Petit Verdot. Two thirds of the barrels are new. George Pauli compares it to 1986 but says that it is without doubt better. Without a shadow of doubt this is the best Meyney ever tasted. We were bowled over by this wine. Deep colour, impressive depth. Smoky and roasted on the nose. Thick, structured, fleshy and concentrated on the palate. Robust, mineral character. Very ripe and tarry. Could be great value. Highly recommended.

Montrose (FV 18.5+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 650, mature = 800) £300 + ? est
62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot this year from yields of 33.5 hl/ha. Dense, thick and unyielding. Monsieur Charmolue describes his 2003 as being “fruité explosif. Un vin très gras, avec des tannins tres murs et puissants. Beaucoup de finesse”. He compares it to the great vintages of the 1950's and finds it even better than the classically structured 1996 and the opulent 1990. Black colour, dense and inky with a huge nose of prunes and black cherries. Massive on the palate, surprisingly sweet and juicy with amazing ripeness but plenty of tannin too. Sexy and sweet for Montrose but it is a truly great and powerful wine that has perfect balance. This is the greatest Montrose that we have ever tasted and a testament to the vintage. A clear contender for wine of the vintage. The only problem with this wine will be in buying enough to satisfy customer demand. Certain to be over-subscribed and will have to be allocated.

Dame de Montrose (FV 15.5+)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS 89-91) (2000 = 200, mature = 300)£150 – 180 est
Even more Cabernet Sauvignon than in the Grand Vin - 65%, with 35% Merlot, and aged in 15% new oak. Further selection in the winery resulted in a third wine (9% of production) also being made to boost the quality of the Dame de Montrose. With Montrose on fire this year it is no surprise that the second wine is outstanding too. Not the voluptuousness of Pagodes de Cos but impressive depth. “Lots of ripe fruit with licorice and plum. A lovely second wine. Delicious.” WS

Ormes de Pez (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91)(2000 = 150, mature = 300 £120 – 150 est
Owned and made by Jean-Michel Cazes of Lynch Bages, this is a consistently good wine and along with Sociando Mallet and Potensac one of the very best of the crus bourgeois of Bordeaux. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc. 40% new oak. (more cabernet than normal). Deep colour. Very open, forward, fleshy blackcurrant ripeness with smoky new wood adding complexity. Lynch-bages-like in its minty Cabernet fruit but medium weight and more open with lovely, rich ripe fleshy mid-palate and nice length. The best we've ever tasted. Highly Recommended.

SAINT EMILION

Angélus (FV 16.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 1100, mature = 1000) £500 – 750 est
Since the 1988 vintage, Angélus has been one of the superstars of Saint Emilion. Black colour, fabulous richness here and great concentration but not too forced or jammy. This is classic Angélus, huge, with layer upon layer of thick ripe tannin and milk chocolate character. More profound fruit and structure and better length than almost any other right-bank wine. “Full-bodied, with super-velvety tannins. Goes on and on. A fabulous young wine. Beautiful. This is pure fruit-coated cashmere.” WS

Ausone (FV 18.5+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 4500, mature = £1500) £1800 – 2400 est
Alain Vauthier has made massive improvements at Ausone in the past few years since taking full control of the winemaking and management of his family property. The wines made here now are in a different league from those produced in the 1970's and 1980's. Made from more or less 50-55% Cabernet Franc, a little Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot with 40-45% Merlot in 100% new oak. The vines were picked over several weeks with the final grapes harvested on October 3rd. Ausone has returned to top First Growth form. Unfortunately there will be less than 2000 cases produced this year. It is a wine that Alain Vauthier compares to the legendary 1959. This wine has absolutely wonderful concentration but there is not a hint of the jammy over-extraction that spoils so many of the wanabee stars of this appellation. Black colour, perfumed, complex, exotic with cloves, allspice, black chocolate and great intensity. Massive, sweet, juicy, mouthfilling, dense but balanced. In 2003 this is simply and irrefutably the wine of the vintage in Saint Emilion.

Chapelle d'Ausone (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 450, mature = n/a) £360 – 500 est
Ausone's second wine is better than nearly all the other Saint Emilions that we tasted in this vintage. Very much a lighter version of the Grand Vin, this has a lovely texture and balance. 40% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc and 20% of the press wine of Ausone. 500 cases produced.

Barde Haut (FV 14.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 230, mature = N/A) £200 – 250 est
Now under the same ownership as Pomerol's Clos l'Eglise, this is a property situated near to Troplong Mondot and La Mondotte. Silky, soft and smooth. Easy to drink and approachable. No great depth.

Beauséjour Bécot (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 320, mature = 350) £240 – 300 est
70% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. 27hl/ha. 85% new oak. Technical advice from Michel Rolland. Thick and dense. This has Angelus-like concentration with plums and black cherries. Deep impressive and heavy with more than a hint of jam. Could do with a bit more charm and a bit less power. Quite impressive.

Beauséjour Duffau (FV ?) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 395, 1990 = 2750) £300 – 360 est
Very low yields here – 28 hl/ha. 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10 % Cabernet Sauvignon. 65% new oak, 35% 1 year old. This is going to be a very controversial wine as it tastes more like Vintage Port than Saint Emilion. Over-concentrated and unbalanced. This is a slightly sickly mixture of chocolate, jam and cream. A mouse could walk across the top of it. We hated it. Robert Parker will probably love it. This is not what 2003 Bordeaux is about.

Bellevue (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 500, mature = N/A) £180 – 280 est
A tiny 6 hectare vineyard, 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, sandwiched between Angélus and Beausejour Duffau that has been run by Nicolas Thienpont of Pavie Macquin since the 2000 vintage. This wine highlights the contrasting styles of wine-making in Saint Emilion today as it has nothing at all in common with the Duffau/Perse sur-maturité school of extraction. Absolutely delicious with ripe red berry fruit and beautifully made as it avoids being over-concentrated whilst at the same time has great depth. Pure silk in a glass. “Lovely” WS

Bellevue-Mondotte (FV ??) (RP xx-xx)(JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = N/A, mature = N/A) £ ??? est
Gérard Perse of Château Pavie has produced a tiny quantity from this 2 hectare vineyard. Low yields, 90% Merlot. This, on the other hand, is absolutely hideous. Tastes like Doctor Pepper without the bubbles. A tiny micro-cuvée that might well sell for over £1000 per case. Unbelievable.

Canon (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 360, mature = 500) £340 – 420 est
Huge investment here recently in the vineyard and chai by owners Chanel. This is a great property that dipped in form in the 90's but is now right back up there under the leadership of John Kolasa of Rauzan Segla (formerly of Château Latour). Michel Rolland has been engaged as a consultant and modern techniques such as bâtonnage and malolactic fermentation in barrel have been used. Neverthless, stylistically this remains a silky and pure St Emilion. Production is down to only 2500 cases because yields were 28 hl/ha (75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc) and considerably more second wine than first wine will be made (3000 cases of Clos Canon). Soft, creamy, very succulent, smooth and silky. Delicious and quite persistent. A rare example of a traditional Saint Emilion that is being made to be enjoyed with food rather than score points at blind tastings.“A very good wine” WS.
Canon la Gaffelière (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 680, mature = 400) £290 – 400 est
One of the outstanding performers in Saint Emilion over the last 10 years. This year the blend is 46% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Franc, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon with yields down to 28 hl/ha. Pigeage and Ecoulage are used in the winery with malolactic fermentation in barrel, all of which are new. Close to Angélus in quality and close to Pavie Macquin in style. This is another creamy, polished, seductive and beautiful Canon la Gaffeliere.

Cheval Blanc (FV ?) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 3800, mature = 2000) £1200 - 1800est
50 : 50 Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Pierre Lurton feels that 2003 is particularly successful for the Cabernet Franc. He describes it as “un grand millesime”. When we tasted the wine it was charming but not showing well. There was a lovely, silky texture but none of the depth that we expected from this great property. Certainly no repeat of the 1947. However, others have pronounced it to be a great wine “Very pretty licorice and mineral aromas. Hints of flowers. Medium to full-bodied, with sweet and silky tannins. Lovely chocolate character. Racy and modern for Cheval Blanc. Not the 1998 but very fine indeed. Seductive juice. Long and beautiful.” WS. Many other tasters have shared our view so the jury is out on Cheval Blanc this year.

Petit Cheval (FV 15) (FV xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 450, mature = 400) £350 – 480 est The second wine of Cheval Blanc, also 50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Franc. Red cherry fruit here, cream, satin and velvet. Will be a lovely drink from an early age.

Clos Badon Thunevin (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 180, mature = n/a)£125–165est
Owned by Jean-Luc Thunevin of Valandraud, this is very much a wine made in the Valandraud style but it is sold a fraction of the price. This reminds us of the delicious 1998 and 2000, being creamy and round with a supple texture, notes of spice and vanilla and a gentle smooth finish.

Clos Fourtet (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 300, mature = £350) £240 – 300 est
This under-performing property changed hands in 2001 and there have been big improvements in quality since then. There is now an impressive double act of Right Bank specialist consultant winemakers – Jean-Claude Berrouet of Château Pétrus and Stéphane Derenoncourt of Canon La Gaffelière and La Mondotte. 3750 cases will be produced in 2003 from 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, yields are a low 31 hl/ha. Wine-making techniques include Pigeage by hand and malolactic in barrel (90% new). They feel that the vintage here is similar to 1990 and we feel that it's the best Clos Fourtet we've ever tasted. Rich and creamy. Opulent but classy. “Very velvety tannins and a long and beautiful finish. Very long. This is 1998, or better.” WS

Clos de l'Oratoire (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 380, mature = N/A) £185 – 250 est
Under the same ownership as Canon La Gaffelière and La Mondotte and made in a similar fashion by the same dynamic young winemaker, Stéphane Derenoncourt. The difference is in the soil and the blend of grape varieties – here it's 90% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. 90% new oak. Plump fruit, smooth and attractive.

Clos St Martin (FV ?) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 400, mature = 250) £250 – 350 est
This tiny property (1.3 hectares) will make about 500 cases this year from 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Winemaking is overseen by consultant oenologist Michel Rolland, all in new oak. This is one of the worst examples of over-extracted, late-picked, over-oaked and out-of-balance wines that we tasted on the right bank this year. Bananas on the nose with jam on the palate. In a low-acidity vintage this kind of over-the-top winemaking just doesn't work. Les Grandes Murailles and Côte de Baleau were similar.

La Couspaude (FV ?) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 285, mature = N/A) £200 – 280 est
Another Michel Rolland wine made in 100% new oak from 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Another black coloured monster that is impressive to look at but will be hard to drink.

Faugères (FV ?) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 180, mature = N/A) £120 – 180 est
Concentrated wine made from 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon in 50% new oak. Yes, it's another Michel Rolland-advised late-picked new-world-style fruit bomb with powerful extraction, low acidity and no balance.

Péby-Faugères (FV ?) (RP xx-xx) (JRxx) (WS89-91) (2000 = 980, mature = N/A) £420 – 600 est
The top cuvée – 8000 bottles produced - of Château Faugères is named after the owner's late husband. 100% Merlot in 100% new barrels from low yields (25 hl/ha) made under the guidance of Michel Rolland. 100% jam juice.

Ferrand Lartigue (FV 14) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 240, mature = N/A) £140 – 180 est
Now made by the talented and ubiquitous Stephane Derenoncourt. 22000 bottles produced from 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. 30 hl/ha, elevage and malolactic fermentation in 70% new oak and 30% 1 year old barrels. A Saint Emilion with a bit of elegance. Nice cherry fruit. Pleasant and pure. Nice wine.
Figeac (FV ?) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 520, mature = 650) £350 – 480 est
One of the great names of Saint Emilion whose wines exude class and sophistication rather than raw power. Made from 30% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, there is often a refreshing kick of slightly herbaceous Cabernet here, combined with a creamy texture in the style of neighbour Cheval Blanc. 7000 cases will be produced in 2003 (normally it's 10,000) from yields of just 29 hl/ha. Elevage in 100% new oak. Eric d'Aramon feels that the vintage is similar stylistically to 1989. The sample that we tried was not showing well. Judgement reserved.

Fombrauge (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx)(JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 155, mature = N/A) £125 – 180 est
Recently purchased by Bernard Magrez of Pape Clément with a resultant leap in quality. 70% Merlot, 20% Cab Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. If the price remains modest this will be a rare Saint Emilion to purchase for value for money. There is a sexy, creamy character to it with lots of chewy plumy fruit on the palate. Modern and seductive but not overblown. “Very seductive and racy with beautiful fruit and mineral character. Full bodied, with super-fine tannins. Goes on and on. Well done for this estate.” WS. Good Value.

Lucia (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx)(JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = n/a, mature = n/a) £??? – ???est
This property was formerly known as Lucie but it has now replaced the “e” with an “a”. Many of our customers know it well as we have sold large quantities of the delicious 2000. The winemaking has also been changed with Stéphane Derenoncourt now in charge. He has produced a delightfully supple and velvety wine in 2003 which works so much better than the jammy concoctions of some of the other St Emilion “Vins de Garage”. We don't know the price level yet but at around £120 per case it would offer very good value.

Magrez-Fombrauge (FV ?) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 2500, mature = N/A) £ ??? est
This micro-cuvée was first made in 2000 and received a glowing review from Robert Parker who rated it amongst the top 4 wines of the vintage with a better score than Pétrus or Le Pin. Consequently the price reached astronomic heights. Not released in 2002, it has hard to guess what this will sell for in 2003. Of all the massively concentrated wines produced in Saint Emilion this year, this could be the ultimate. There is a remarkable density with extraordinary levels of sweet roasted fruit. A show-off for sure, but it's a good one.

Larcis Ducasse (FV 15.5+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = N/A, mature = N/A) £160 – 240 est
What a stunning transformation! This fabulously situated vineyard (next door to Pavie on the best slope in Saint Emilion) has always had potential but has never produced great wine. In 2002, Nicolas Thienpont and Stéphane Derenoncourt of neighbouring Pavie Macquin, took control of both the vineyard and the winemaking and made one of the wines of the vintage. This has a real fruit cocktail of flavours on the palate. Smooth and exotic but not too forced. Hard to resist this lovely creamy wine.

Monbousquet (FV ?) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 550, mature = N/A) £300 – 450 est
Gérard Perse has transformed this property since he bought it in the early 1990's. Quality has been amazing here considering the lack of serious “terroir”. Robert Parker has given it massive scores in recent vintages with a resultant hike in price (we sold the 1995 en primeur at £160). Made from 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon from very low yields (under 30 hl/ha) in 100% new oak. Extraordinarily sweet and jammy. This vendange tardive Saint Emilion is sweet and decadent but has the decadence been taken a step too far this year?

La Mondotte (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 2400, mature = N/A) £900 + est
This hot super-cuvée is made by the Canon La Gaffelière team from 45 year old vines – 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc. Production is a mere 800 cases this year as yields of this fabulously concentrated wine were a meagre 25hl/ha. Elevage sur lie in 100% new oak. Great richness here with crème de cassis, rich, sweet vanilla and whipped cream but not the over-blown jamminess of, for example, Bellevue Mondotte. Juicy and hot with loads of layered ripe tannins and quite low acidity. “Fabulous aromas of blackberries, chocolate, tobacco and cappuccino. Full-bodied, it starts off slowly with loads of fruit but then it kicks off with the tannins. Blockbuster. Not obvious but then wham!” WS

Moulin St Georges (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 200, mature = 200) £145 – 180 est
This 8 hectare vineyard adjoins Ausone and has the same owner and winemaker. “Readers should think of it as a junior Ausone” Robert Parker. Always provides some of the best value in Saint Emilion. 2500 cases produced from 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, picked September 20th to 30th. Alain Vauthier compares it to 1989 but better. Tasted at Ausone, this was one of our favourite Saint Emilions. Lovely red cherry fruit, smooth ripe and supple. Will be a delightful wine. “Grapey, with loads of fruit and spices on the nose. Full-bodied and chewy, with loads of serious fruit and ripe tannins. Almost 92-94” Those of us who cannot obtain or afford a case of the amazing Ausone should consider Moulin St Georges as it offers more than a hint of the Ausone style at a fraction of the price. Good value.

Pavie (FV ?) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 95-100) (2000 = 1600, mature = 400) £750 – 1000 est
Produced from 50 year old vines (60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon) and elevaged in 100% new oak by Gérard Perse, the owner of Monbousquet. He has created a modern winery in one of St Emilion's greatest terroirs and, with very low yields, is creating wines of enormous concentration and power. Completely different from the Pavies of old (but so is the price). Without the help of Robert Parker's prose the 2002 failed to sell so it will be interesting to see at what price Monsieur Perse will release the 2003. Intense, richness and sweetness in the style of a cult Californian wine. Massive, extracted and powerful. A wine that those looking for traditional Saint Emilion should avoid. Hard not to be impressed but impossible for us to judge. “Super-ripe and almost jammy. Very new world on the nose but impressive. Bordeaux-like on the palate. Berries, raspberries and strawberries. Hint of wood. Full-bodied with ripe and round tannins and a long finish. Chewy. Got to like this.” WS. “Ridiculous wine” Jancis Robinson

Pavie Decesse (FV ?) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 720, mature = 300) £540 – 780 est
Also recently purchased by Gérard Perse with a resultant leap in quality. This small 3.65 hectare vineyard produces opulent Saint Emilion from 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc from the same modern methods as at Monbousquet and Pavie. Sweet and perhaps not quite as over-blown as the Pavie but why would anyone buy this when they can have Pavie Macquin for less money?

Pavie Macquin (FV 16+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 520, mature = 300) £200 – 300 est
Stéphane Derenoncourt produces a wine here that Robert Parker describes as “The Lafleur of Saint Emilion.” As impressive as Pavie but much finer, purer, more sophisticated and at a fraction of the price. One of the top 5 wines on the right bank for us this year and – dare we say it – better than Cheval Blanc. A lovely creamy nose with strawberry fruit and a complex, yet delicate, lingering palate of sweet ripe fruit. Very classy. “Full bodied, with wonderful freshness and length. Goes on and on. Could be the best I have ever tasted from here.” WS

Quinault l'Enclos (FV ?) (RP xx-xx)(JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 380, mature = N/A) £275 – 380 est
This new property (first vintage 1997) is producing decadent rich wines on the outskirts of Libourne, closer to Pomerol than Saint Emilion. The wine is made from 77% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon – yield a very low 26hl/ha. Elevage in 60% new oak barrels, malolactic fermentation in barrel with elevage sur lie. The poor quality of the terroir shows through in 2003 as this wine seems to lack character and depth. A nicely fragrant nose leads on to a rather disappointing light palate that delivers red cherries but little to excite.

Rol Valentin (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 450, mature = N/A) £275 – 380 est
This 4 hectare property was purchased in 1994 by Eric Prissette. Consultant winemaker is Stéphane Derenoncourt. It first came to our attention with a stunning 1998 vintage and this is an excellent effort. Ausone is the best St Emilion by far this year but it will be virtually unobtainable. Along with Angélus, Pavie Macquin and Canon la Gaffeliere this is clearly one of the top wines of the vintage. Sweet and creamy with an enthralling silky texture that is reminiscent of Le Pin. Despite being classed as a “Vin de Garage” this is in fact a very pure and honest St Emilion. “Soft and seductive. This is very serious indeed. Exciting stuff. This small producer makes fine handmade wines.” WS

Saint Ayme (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 75, mature = N/A) £50 - 75
Denis Durantou of L'Eglise Clinet makes this 2000 cases cuvee from a parcel of vines in Saint Etienne de Lisse. 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc. 50% new oak. Good depth of fruit with nice bite and structure. Plenty of juicy sweetness in the mid palate. Should be a very attractive wine to drink when young. Great value. The cheapest wine to be scored 89-91 by The Wine Spectator! “Loads of berry, tobacco and spice aromas on this one. Full-bodied, with well-integrated tannins and a silky, refined finish. Well crafted.” WS

Le Tertre Roteboeuf (FV 16)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS xx-xx)(2000 = 1350, mature = 1500) £600 – 750 est
Francois Mitjaville's wine is always smooth and creamy. Modern, but never forced or jammy. In this vintage of contrasting wine-making styles, coming across Tertre Rotboeuf is liking having a Domaine Dujac Burgundy in an Australian Shiraz tasting! A breath of fresh air. This wine is not concentratred but it is beautiful with lovely summer fruit flavours. Soft and lovely - made to be enjoyed.

Troplong Mondot (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 480, mature = 500) £250 – 350 est
Since the late 1980's Christine Valette has consistently produced dense blockbuster Saint Emilions. 80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, malolactic fermentation and elevage all in new oak. Impressive depth here. Chunky and chocolatey with cherry fruit. “A solid wine, with lots of smoky, berry and meaty character. Full bodied with velvety tannins.” WS

Valandraud (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 1600, mature = 1650) £900 + est
65% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, the rest Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, Valandraud is painstakingly hand made in 100% new Seguin Moreau oak barrels by the guru of the garagistes – Jean-Luc Thunevin. First produced in 1991 this was the first of the “Garage Wines” and Jean-Luc is not shy to say that this is the best vintage that he has ever made. “A pretty wine with blackberry, cherry and chocolate. Medium to full-bodied, with fine-grained tannins and a sweet, tannic finish. Very well done. Some say it's too new-wave but I like it.” WS

Virginie de Valandraud (FV 14.5)(RPxx-xx)(JR xx)(WSxx-xx)(2000 = 265, mature = 360)£180 – 250 est
Valandraud's second wine, first produced in 1992, is named after Jean-Luc and Murielle Thunevin's daughter. This wine, also made in 100% new oak, is the result of severe selection - made by sacrificing many barrels that could quite easily have been incorporated into the final blend of Valandraud itself. Sweet, silky and easy to like.

POMEROL

Bon Pasteur (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 450, mature = 400) £300 – 400 est
Famed oenologist Michel Rolland's own property. Small production (20000 bottles) and rarely seen when mature. 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet with tiny yields of 22hl/ha. Comparisons made here with 1982 and 1990. Extremely sweet and cassis-like. Very concentrated. “Jammy, rich wine with cooked berry character. Full-bodied.” WS

Clinet (FV 14.5) (RP xx-xx)(JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 600, mature = 600) £500 – 600 est
Always opulent, decadent and late-picked. Made from 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Oodles of cream here. Lovely sweet wine in a new-world style. Late-picked and opulent but it is a little one-dimensional and has no great depth to it. Hard to justify buying it unless the price drops dramatically.

Clos l'Eglise (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 1200, mature = N/A) £600 – 900 est
This small 6 hectare property is situated between Clinet and L'Eglise Clinet. Planted with 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, winemaking (in 100% new oak) is overseen by Michel Rolland. Quality here used to be fairly dreadful but under new ownership since the late 1990s, sumptuous, creamy and expensive wines have been produced. This is no exception. It is beautifully sweet amd soft with a polished texture. Like Clinet it is slightly lightweight and has none of the depth or complexity of l'Eglise Clinet.

La Conseillante (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 1250, mature = 1000) £350 – 600 est
Consistently soft and creamy traditional Pomerol that never tries to be heavy or extracted. 45000 bottles will be produced from 80% Merlot and 20% cabernet Franc. Monsieur Lamy describes his wine as follows “la violette et la reglisse sont les deux aromes principaux auxquels s'ajoutent des notes de cerise, de cassis, de fraise écrasées. La bouche allie parfaitement tanins veloutés et texture crémeuse. La fin de bouche est longue avec des notes légèrement beurrées et grilles.” Plump, roasted, creamy fruit here. Quite rich and bound to be a lovely drink at a relatively early age. Typical of 90% of the Pomerols that we tasted in this vintage it lacks stuffing.

L'Eglise Clinet (FV 17.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 1500, mature = 1000) £500 – 800 est
Denis Durantou is making stunning wines that, since 1985, have invariably matched or beaten all the top names of Pomerol in blind tastings. Around 1000 cases are produced from 50 year old vines (90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc) picked fully mature, but not late (yield 32 hl/ha).No fancy tricks here, just old vines, great terroir and inspired, yet traditional, wine-making. 80% new oak. This is the best wine that we tasted in Pomerol by a mile. If it wasn't for the brilliance of Ausone it would be the right bank's wine of the vintage – easily. The key to Eglise Clinet's success was in picking early (it was the earliest harvest here since 1947) and Durantou has managed to get twice as much out of his grapes than any of his neighbours and avoided sur-maturité. An enormous nose of truffles, violets, vanilla, exotic spices and dark chocolate is followed by an enormous palate with monster depth that is quite unique in this appellation. Huge, juicy and full of flavour. A stunning achievement. Great wine. “Lovely wine” WS

La Petite Eglise (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 185, mature = 240) £120 – 150 est
Denis Durantou's second wine is a serious Pomerol in its own right, but at a fraction of the price of Eglise Clinet. Usually the best value wine in Pomerol. 50% of this is from the younger vines of L'Eglise Clinet and 50% isMerlot from a separate vineyard next to La Grave a Pomerol. Overall, it is 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc. 1250 case production elevaged in 50% new oak. Plump and pruney but with structure. This might be a second wine but it's one of the best wines of Pomerol in this vintage. Recommended for value.

L'Evangile (FV 15.5+) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 1500, mature = 1000) £700 – 900 est
Consistently one of the finest wines of Pomerol, now under the control of the winemaking team of Chateau Lafite. Made from 79% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc from a yield of just 24 hl/ha with 40% of the crop going into the second wine. Tasted just after Cheval Blanc, this is a wine of similar creamy texture and supple body that seems to lack a central core of fruit on the mid palate. Very nice but not a great L'Evangile this year.
Nenin (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 440, mature = 300) £220 – 300 est
Now owned by Jean-Hubert Delon of Léoville Lascases. 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and a yield of just 21.4 hl/ha. Despite the small crop, only 46% of the fruit was used for the first label. Nicely supple with good Pomerol typicity. Attractive and good for early drinking. “Soft and round tannins and a lovely finish. Silky.” WS

Le Pin will not be released
Jacques Thienpont has been making this fabulous Pomerol since 1979. This year the scorched vineyard yielded just 5 barrels so he has made the decision not to release a Le Pin in 2003

Rouget (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 =270, mature = 250) £160
This property is well-situated behind L'Eglise Clinet and the wines have been much-improved recently. It was the first Chateau to release its 2003 vintage onto the market. The wine is typically Pomerol with a lovely round texture and ripe favours of plums and berries. Nice and juicy, this would make a lovely mouthful in a few years time. Not much complexity but sweet and enjoyable.

Vieux Château Certan (FV xx)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS 89-91)(2000 = 800, mature = 750) £380 – 500 est
Alexandre Thienpont has been making great VCCs over the past few years. This year the production, as at Le Pin, was decimated but at least some wine will be produced and what there is, is quite good. Instead of the normal 4000 cases, there will only be 800 and these will be made from 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot. Alexandre reports that only old vines produced grapes of good quality and that the Merlot in particular suffered from the heat. It is the first ever vintage of VCC that will be made mainly from Cabernet Franc with all of the Cabernet Sauvignon and most of the Merlot rejected. The assemblage had not been made when we visited but the Cabernet Franc had some complexity and seemed quite successful. The Merlot offered straightforward sweet fruit but was weak and uninspiring. Alexandre is a serious winemaker who has the honesty to admit that 2003 is not a great vintage for most producers in Pomerol.

LALANDE DE POMEROL

La Chénade (FV 14.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 95, mature = 95) £70 – 90 est
Made by the brilliant Denis Durantou of Eglise Clinet. Much of this is sourced from the younger vines of the Les Cruzelles vineyard from approximately 50:50 Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Yields were 35 hl/ha, 30% new oak. Only 1000 cases this year. Remarkably good wine (and better than many Pomerols that we tasted and rejected).

Les Cruzelles (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = N/A,mature = N/A) £120 – 150 est
This 25 acre property, planted 60% with Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, is situated not far from the famous plateau of Pomerol. The Château was purchased in 2000 by Denis Durantou and will make just 600 cases in 2003 which are being aged in 50% new oak. Very attractive wine with sweet fruit but good structure.

La Fleur de Bouard (FV 14.5) (RPxx-xx) (JR xx) (WS89-91) (2000 = 200, mature = N/A)£150 – 200 est
Owned by Hubert de Bouard of Angelus and totally different from the Durantou wines above. This is very extracted, thick and dense. Very sweet up front but dry on the finish. Impressive but much better wines are to be found in the Medoc at the same price.

Le Plus de la Fleur de Bouard (FV ?)(RP xx-xx)(JR xx)(WS 92-94)(2000 = 680) £480 – 600 est
Hubert de Bouard's tiny special cuvée is made from 100% Merlot in 100% new oak and this year tastes rather like treacle. “Chewy. Very big wine. First Growth in Lalande de Pomerol. Made from old vines.” WS

LUSSAC SAINT EMILION

La Croix de Peyrolie (FV ?) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = n/a, mature = n/a) £??? – ???est
Owned by French film actress Carole Bouquet and Bernard Magrez, this is a wine of remarkable concentration which is made in an international style under the auspices of Michel Rolland. Huge, sexy and powerful. So unlike any other wine of this appellation it is hard to judge.

COTES DE FRANCS

Marsau (FV 14.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 100, mature = n/a) £80 – 120 est
Once described by Robert Parker as “The Pétrus of the Côtes de Francs” this is a Merlot dominated fruit bomb of a wine. Jean-Marie Chadronnier says that it is the best that they have ever made and it certainly has impressive density and sweetness. A real powerhouse of a wine that is similar to many Saint Emilons that are made by fellow disciples of Michel Rolland – but will be sold at a considerably cheaper price.
COTES DE BOURG

Roc de Cambes (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS xx-xx) (2000 = 260, mature = 260) £180 – 240 est
This is without doubt the top wine of the appellation. Francois Mitjavile makes this wine in the style of his popular Tertre Roteboeuf and it has developed a cult following. A lightish colour but a lovely refreshing purity. Strawberry fruit. Lovely.

COTES DE BLAYE

Gigault Cuvée Viva (FV 15) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 150, mature = 260) £90 – 120 est
This wine was first produced in 1998 and has been very popular with our customers ever since. Now established as one of the top wines of the appellation the modest price belies the quality. “This is really beautiful on the nose, with plums, blackberries and spices. Medium to full bodied, with a solid core of silky tannins and a medium to long finish. All in finesse. A real beauty, delicious. In Harmony.” WS – Good Value.

COTES DE CASTILLON

Domaine de l'A (FV 16) (RP xx-xx) (JR xx) (WS 89-91) (2000 = 180, mature = N/A) £145 – 180 est
Stéphane and Christine Derenoncourt's own property. 800 cases from 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and miniscule yields of 17 hl/ha. 70% new oak. 800 cases produced. This is one of the most enjoyable wines that we tasted during our 5 day marathon around the Chateaux of Bordeaux. Absolutely lovely, supple wine with gorgeous flavours of strawberries and cream. Great persistence but not over-done. “Intense aromas of blackberries, smoke and meat follow through to a medium-bodied palate with layers of ripe tannins and a long, silky finish. Joy to taste.” WS

Aiguilhe (FV 15.5) (RP xx-xx)(JR xx) (WS 92-94) (2000 = 145, mature = N/A) £110 – 150 est
Owned by Stéphane von Niepperg of Canon la Gaffeliere. This wine was produced from 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc. Yields 30 hl/ha. After a long fermentation (with pumping over and pigeage) the wine is being elevaged sur lie with malolactic fermentation in barrel, of which 50% are new. Plump, supple and creamy and very attractive. Tasted alongside la Mondotte and genuinely not far away in quality. Great Value. “Wow! This is really impressive now, with berry, currant and mineral. Full-bodied, with a wonderful core of fruit with superfine tannins and fabulous length. Unbelievable for this estate.” JS

DRY WHITE WINES - :

2003 is a good vintage for the dry white wines of Bordeaux but low acidity means that they will probably not be wines for long ageing. We hope to have the following wines available :

Haut Brion Blanc (very good) 52% Semillon, 48% Sauvignon Blanc.

Plantiers Haut Brion (2nd wine of Haut Brion Blanc)

Laville Haut Brion (White wine of La Mission Haut Brion) 98% Semillon, 2% Sauvignon Blanc (outstanding)

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc (80% Sauvignon, 20% Semillon)

Pape Clément Blanc

Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc

de Fieuzal Blanc (50:50 Sauvignon/Semillon)

Haut Bergey Blanc

Larrivet Haut Brion Blanc

Pavillon Blanc de Margaux 100% Sauvignon Blanc.

SWEET WHITE WINES –

2003 is a great vintage for the wines of Sauternes and Barsac. The “Syndicat des Crus Classés” describes it as intense and powerful, showing incredible aromatic complexity with a very pure botrytis element giving almost ethereal sweetness….Jean-Pierre Faure, cellar master at Château La Tour Blanche, recalls 1929. It is a uniquely exotic vintage, with gorgeously ripe grapes and the honeyed richness of botrytis. A vintage of big wines with great character and more residual sugar than the 1989s or 2001s which several producers liken to the 1983, and one which will be ready for early drinking. We hope to have the following wines available:

Climens (£380-460 est)
Not tasted.

Rieussec (£280 – 360 est)
On the nose an attractive notes of pears, honey and citrus fruits. On the palate there is intense sweetness without being cloying, accompanied by honey, sweet peaches and tangerines. Very long finish.

Suduiraut (£250 – 320 est)
Fresh aromas of sweet floral characters and nettles, candied lemon peel. A full bodied wine with candied peel accompanied by sweet tangerine fruit. Good length of flavours on the finish.

Guiraud (£250 – 350 est)
Fresh limes, apples with honey and brown sugar aromas. Full bodied wine with orange marmalade, candied lemon peel and brown sugar. Clean finish.

Coutet (£240 – 320 est)
Honeyed citrus and sugar aromas with ripe tangerines, oranges, honeysuckle and sweet fleshy peach flavour. Clean, long and elegant finish.

Lafaurie Peyraguey (£240 – 320 est)
Honey and nettles with exotic fruit salad aromas followed by orange marmalade, orange peel and caramel notes, almost slightly smoky on the palate

La Tour Blanche (£230 – 320 est)
A little closed on the nose but hints of marmalade, citrus and tropical fruits. Full big powerful wine, super rich and honeyed.

De Malle (£180 – 240 est)
A confection and honeysuckle nose, as well as flavours of a christmas pudding mixture. Lots of oranges, rich luscious tropical fruits.

Nairac (£220 – 280 est)
Honeyed and orange peel aromas, with toffee apples, honey and peach flavours on the finish.

Clos Haut Peyraguey (£200 – 250 est)
Clean nettles, green sugared apples. Luscious, rich sweet orange-tangerine marmalade fruit, marzipan and creamy overtones, a full bodied, powerful but clean wine with wonderful complexity and length of flavours.

Rayne Vigneau (£200 – 265 est)
Fresh spiced lemon nose, tangy lemon curd and some toffee apple aromas. On the palate banana toffee cleansed by peachy fruits.

Sigalas Rabaud (£160 – 220 est)
On the nose a clean honey and floral character followed by limes and tropical fruits, chocolate orange and candied peel flavours.

Doisy Vedrines (£170 – 220 est)
Limes, gooseberry and honeysuckle aromas. Full, creamy palate with tropical fruits, lemon drops and honeysuckle with a long finish.

Doisy Daene (£170 – 220 est)
Grapefruit, candied orange peel and lemon tangs

Filhot (£140 – 180 est)
Slight lychee aroma with limes, lemons and sherbert. Honeysuckles, very ripe peaches with mandarin marmalade flavours, maybe not as big as some of the heavyweights but still plenty of flavours

D'Arche (£120 – 165 est)
Aromas of herbacious and floral characters, kiwi fruits with honey and fudge. Lots of marmalade in the mouth.

Joli Claude, ça t'as pris du temps pour tout recopier?
(aaa)

D'accord, et qu'est ce qu'on doit faire maintenant ?
Acheter du Montrose ??! (aaa)

Amitiés,
M@nuel.

NON SURTOUT PAS !
Tu ne dois surtout pas en commander.
MONTROSE 2003 EST UN VIN SURFAIT ET Dà‰Jà SURCOTà‰ !
Et franchement, c'est pas terrible comme vin !
Et pour le prix moyen d'une bouteille de Montrose, tu as une caisse entière d'un petit bordeaux.
(aaa)

Ne donnons pas le nom de ce petit bordeaux !!

ah non, surtout pas ! sinon son prix va monter !

Un peu de mauvaise foi le David peut-être, non ? (bbb)
Une petite différence entre Montrose à  30 € et Montrose à  60 €, où bien tu achètes quel que soit le prix ?
C'est juste une petite question comme ça en passant...

Luc

Et bien voilà  !!
Ce petit bordeaux a pris +5 euros/bouteille depuis que nous en parlons.

+10
+20
+50 !!!!!

NOOOOON, M'sieur le propriétaire*, je deconnais !!!

J'arrête, J'arrête d'en parler.
Ouf !!

Désolé les gars.

M@nuel.

*propriétaire du chateau Petit Bordeaux en appellation Bordeaux Supérieur.
Tel: 05 00 00 99 00 Fax : 05 00 00 00 09

Non Luc, je n'achète pas Montrose quel que soit le prix.
Je n'ai acheté en primeur que le 2000. Il était à  58 euros.
58 divisé par 12 bouteilles, ça fait 4,83 euros la bouteille de petit bordeaux.

Bonsoir,

Merci Claudius pour ce bel effort.

J'aime bien l'estimation du prix de sortie d'ausone ...

1800 à  2400 £, soit 210 à  280 euros ... La bouteille ... Hors Taxes ....

Dis tonton, pourquoi tu tousses ?

Horrow.

Hot Property: Bordeaux 2003

The Vintage
In more ways than one, 2003 Bordeaux will be remembered as a hot vintage. Everyone in Europe experienced the exceptional summer weather, but on our trip to taste the wines last week we were amazed to learn that 20% more people were at this year's tastings than for the 2000 vintage!

Everyone agrees this vintage is remarkable with the best wines bursting with generous, super-ripe fruit and enormous levels of tannins. Low acidity appeared to be a concern before the wines were made, but on tasting the best wines appear to have good levels to balance the incredible fruit/tannin proportions. Which wines are the best remains a more subjective assessment - below you will find our own league table of our favourites, with Ausone and Latour in top spot.

Quality overview in brief:
2003 has lived up to its dramatic build-up producing some awesome wines that will rival some of the greatest of all time characterised by deep concentrations of very ripe fruit and enormous, ripe tannins.

Spare a thought also for the dry white wines of Bordeaux (especially in the Graves) which are sensational; glorious, perfectly ripe fruit with wonderful aromas . For fans of these wines, this vintage is to die for.

Communes:
Left bank: Graves and Margaux were particularly variable with a higher proportion of disappointments than those further north, with St Estephe being especially consistent. We also found sensational quality in Pauillac and St Julien with most of the usual high achievers delivering great wines.

Right bank: Many of our colleagues warned us that the St Emilion and Pomerol line-ups were gruesome, but we found some outstanding wines in both communes, although it has to be said less in Pomerol than in St Emilion.

Market overview:
Despite weak US Dollar rates, we expect very high demand for the vintage from all parts of the globe especially at key review publication dates. Hopefully the initial prices being offered now will set a precedent for reasonable price increases (10 to 15% above 2002 prices), but as the campaign gathers steam we may see these figures double as some proprietors speculate on demand at more significant price increases. We predict this vintage will then suffer a high degree of price volatility as demand chases the top wines creating an 'investors' market.

(Please note – among the top performers we did not taste such notable wines as Valandraud, Palmer & Calon Segur.)
The Best:
Ausone
Latour

Excellent Wines:
Cheval Blanc
Haut Brion
Lafite Rothschild
Leoville Lascases
Margaux

Outstanding/Excellent Wines:
Cos d'Estournel
Evangile
La Conseillante
Mouton Rothschild
Pape Clement
Pichon Lalande

Outstanding Wines:
Angelus
Beausejour Becot
Bellevue Mondotte
Canon La Gaffeliere
Dom De Chevalier
La Couspaude
La Gaffeliere
Lynch Bages
Montrose
Nenin
Pavie
Pavie Decesse
Pichon Baron
Rauzan Segla
Troplong Mondot
Vieux Chateau Certan

Very Good Wines:
Bahans Haut Brion
Cantenac Brown
Chapelle d'Ausone
Clerc Milon
Clinet
Clos du Marquis
Clos Fourtet
D'Armailhac
Dame de Montrose
De Fieuzal
Durfort Vivens
Forts de Latour
Gazin
Grand Mayne
Grand Puy Lacoste
Gruauad Larose
Haut Batailley
Kirwan
La Dominique
Leoville Barton
Malescot St Exupery
Monbousquet
Moulin St Georges
Petit Cheval
Potensac
Prieure Lichine
Talbot

Other Notably Good Wines:
Berliquet
Brane Cantenac
Figeac
Fugue de Nenin
Giscours
Grand Puy Ducasse
Haut Bages Liberal
La Mission Haut Brion
Lafon Rochet
Lascombes
Pauillac de Latour
Pavillon Rouge of Ch Margaux
Pontet Canet
Rauzan Gassies

Note interessante :

Chateau la dominique (Quarin l'a mal noté) est à  19.90 (2003) contre 22.10 pour le primeur 2002. Ce qui confirme que les prix vont évoluer selon la qualité des vins.

Haut Condissas est sorti à  25 euros HT

cher, pas cher?

n'est ce pas François Mauss qui considère ce vin comme excellent?