Voici un commentaire intéressant de Parker au sujet de Pavie et de Jancis Robinson.
Voici le lien qui vous mènera à la discussion à ce sujet sur son forum :
"Jim- All I can do is write what I truly believe and let the chips fall where they do.I have neither backed off the criticism of some of my favorite estates that faltered in 2003, or hid my enthusiasm for those wines I feel are compelling.I suspect most other writers have done the same thing.
I had Pavie four separate times, and,recognizing everyone's taste is different,Pavie does not taste at all(for my palate) as described by Jancis. She has a lamentable and perplexing history of disliking not only all of Perse's wines,but virtually all of the garagiste wines of St.Emilion.The irony is that she seems to be very fond of Le Pin,which some of these wines resemble,and is the inspiration for many of them.That is her opinion,and she will have to answer for it as all of us do that practice this rather whimsical craft.These recent comments(assuming they are accurate) are very much in keeping with her nasty swipes at all the Pavies made by Perse(1998 onward),and mirror the comments of not only reactionaries in Bordeaux,but also segments of the wine trade that are furious with Perse over his pricing shenanigans...As most of you discussed, Francois Mauss and his jury of primarily Europeans reached different conclusions about the Perse wines in 1998 and 1999 because the wines are very classical,just more concentrated than many of their peers.Moreover, Perse is a lover of the great classic vintages of Bordeaux,and 1929 and 1947 right banks are his reference point...he would never drink or even produce a wine such as described by Jancis. Moreover,the line about "not knowing" is funny....yes, one can do these tastings blind,but Pavie is the only premier grand cru estate to use an antique form of bottle that...even when covered up,stands out like a black sheep.Of course, she realizes as I do, that most consumers won't even have a chance to offer their opinion until 2006...when the 2003 Pavie is bottled and released....two last thoughts to ponder...why do some people object so strenuously when dedicated young men and women try and take an obscure piece of property,and passionately attempt to produce something special? And somewhat related...what is wrong with these young Bordelais adopting time-honored Burgundy wine-making techiques...cold macerations, malolactic in barrel, an aging of the wine on its lees, and minimal fining and filtering in their efforts to maximize whatever terroir and vintage character that is available?"
[ April 09, 2004, 07:10 AM: Message edited by: Robert Parker ]
